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Discussion Starter #1
...and those who work on these cars.

I'm looking at a 2006 300c with 182,000 miles. I wasn't looking seriously until I searched this site and found that these engines should go 200k+ with proper maintenance.
The question I have for you is; what kind of repairs have you faced over these miles? Are many of these repairs DIY's? Just wondering about the reliability of this car over 200k miles. I'd like to think it'll go forever (that what it feels like when you drive them), but I'm not naive.

On the work that you've had to do...what costs were involved?
What preventative maintenance/modifications could have been or have been done to extend life and minimize repairs?

Since this body style is destined to become a classic...hopefully this could become a thread for future buyers and current owners wondering about life above 150k or even 200k miles and beyond.

Thanks everyone!
 

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That is quite a bit of miles... My 07 has 115k and since im the original owner I have the lifetime engine and drivetrain warranty. I'm not sure I would want to shell out the money if the engine ever went.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply Jerad, however, this is not a post about if you "would want to shell the money if the engine ever went."

Want I'm looking for, as the post states, are people who own or have worked on 300c's with 150,000 miles or more. What repairs has the car needed, with costs if possible. Are many of the repairs DIY possible? And are there preventative maintenance steps, or mods, that can be taken to prevent some of the major repairs.

If I can buy this '06 Hemi for $8k or less, and get up to 250k miles before "major" work or engine/tranny replacement....it might just be worth the $.

Again, thanks for your input Jerad...but lets stay on topic.
 

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What are you able to do? I will tell you from my own experience the quality of the drive severely deteriorates as mine started to at 100k. I just put out 700 for struts shocks and a tie rod and the car still doesn't drive good.

Changing the spark plugs every 30k, oil, fluids etc are DIY if you know how.

As I said earlier just the struts and shocks will run you at least 500 plus labor unless you can do it yourself. You can get the spark plus for around $50 shipped for the set of 16. Thats about all I have to contribute.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice. Thanks Jerad.
When you say the ride "deteriorated", what exactly does that mean? Clunky (noisy)? Rough? Boaty?
I used to have an '06 300c from new to just over 40k miles.
The one I drove with 182k miles rode about as close as I remember to my '06...but it had 22" wheels on it. But I'll definitely take that into consideration.

I am fairly handy. I have a '90 Nissan 300zx with somewhere in the neighborhood of 250k miles. I've done most of the work on this car, including a complete engine rebuild... but I worked along side a friend of mine who owned a shop at the time, otherwise I would not have attempted the rebuild myself. But I can turn a wrench...mildly. :)

Thanks again Jerad
Anyone else out there with high miles?
 

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I have three that I run for a limo service so besides regular servicing, tires and brakes, here is a quick rundown of what has been replaced:

2006 3.5 V6 180,000 miles
strut rod bushes
inner and outer tie rod ends
transmission oil cooler due to leak (also doubles as air conditioner condensor)
pink thing in shifter, 2 cent split pin repair done

2007 3.5 V6 135,000 miles (this one is converted to run on LPG as well as gasoline)
strut rod bushes
fuel pump

2007 5.7 Hemi 160,000 miles
strut rod bushes
outer tie rod ends
pink thing in shifter, 2 cent split pin repair done
the transmission oil cooler is starting to weep so probably need to do this soon.
have brought new shocks but not installed yet
(damping is non-existant now, but this one has been thrashed at the track a bit too)

The two V6 cars are using a bit of oil between services, more so the 2007 one with less kilometers. Timing belts, water pumps and tensioners were done on these V6 cars as routine maintenance.

Depending on your capabilities, brakes, suspension work, servicing and the like is pretty easy DIY stuff.

Of the items above the fuel pump was the only real breakdown so far, broken pink things can be overcome on the side of the road if necessary.

Touch wood they have a few more miles in them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have three that I run for a limo service so besides regular servicing, tires and brakes, here is a quick rundown of what has been replaced:

2006 3.5 V6 180,000 miles
strut rod bushes
inner and outer tie rod ends
transmission oil cooler due to leak (also doubles as air conditioner condensor)
pink thing in shifter, 2 cent split pin repair done

2007 3.5 V6 135,000 miles (this one is converted to run on LPG as well as gasoline)
strut rod bushes
fuel pump

2007 5.7 Hemi 160,000 miles
strut rod bushes
outer tie rod ends
pink thing in shifter, 2 cent split pin repair done
the transmission oil cooler is starting to weep so probably need to do this soon.
have brought new shocks but not installed yet
(damping is non-existant now, but this one has been thrashed at the track a bit too)

The two V6 cars are using a bit of oil between services, more so the 2007 one with less kilometers. Timing belts, water pumps and tensioners were done on these V6 cars as routine maintenance.

Depending on your capabilities, brakes, suspension work, servicing and the like is pretty easy DIY stuff.

Of the items above the fuel pump was the only real breakdown so far, broken pink things can be overcome on the side of the road if necessary.

Touch wood they have a few more miles in them yet.

Thanks Protego! That's some good info!
Seems like the "pink thing in the shifter" is a common thing. What exactly is it and how do you know when it becomes a problem?

Thanks again Protego! Great write up....anyone else out there?
 

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The pink thing is a plastic bit in the shifter that breaks, when it goes you can't shift out of park. Pleanty of threads on here if you search for pink thing. It's a silly little problem really and I think there is now a recall in place to fix it properly, but for my money the 2 cent split pin repair works fine.

If the price is right and the car has been looked after, then I would not have any problems with a high mileage car.
 

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I did 160,000 miles in my HEMI.
Because I imported it from the US to UK, I had no warranty what-so-ever.
I did all my own oil changes at 6,000 intervals with high quality oil and filters.
I fitted a catch can at about 80,000 when I noticed how much oil was on the back of my throttle body!!
Also fitted a 170 thermostat.
Did most of the other "consumable" items myself too.
I believe that by looking after the motor in this way, it helped it make 160,000 miles and as far as I know it's still going.
Hope this helps, but if you have any further questions, just let me know.
Cheers
Steve
 

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Could you explain the symptoms that caused you to replace the strut rod bushes? I replaced my struts and shocks but it didn't really seem to do much. My car still hits holes and dips hard, with a loud pounding sound. I want this fixed. Thanks
 

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The factory rubber strut rod (radius rod) bushes split very early on in the piece and were replaced with polyurethane ones from Pedders. You do need to be a bit wary of just doing the bushes as I know another owner of a high mileage unit who has had the ball joint on the other end wear out. Complete replacement rods are not much dearer than just the bushes on their own.

Here is a good photo of the problem:



Apparently the lower control arm bushes can also wear out so this might be another area to have a look at.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Could you explain the symptoms that caused you to replace the strut rod bushes? I replaced my struts and shocks but it didn't really seem to do much. My car still hits holes and dips hard, with a loud pounding sound. I want this fixed. Thanks

Jerad, Usually that loud pounding sound, sometimes described as "clunking" is more than likely a result of worn or non-existent bushings. Makes for noisy suspension.
 

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Jerad, Usually that loud pounding sound, sometimes described as "clunking" is more than likely a result of worn or non-existent bushings. Makes for noisy suspension.
not to hijack the thread or anything, but does anyone have a clue how much this should cost...I look at pedders but there are so many different parts.
 

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I have about 142,000 miles ... 227,000 km

Have changed many parts in the front end and finally the CLUNK is gone. Did NOT change the struts or shocks.

Now I have had a variety of electrical ECM and PCM issues. Replaced the ECM and finally had a major tuneup and things appear better. Got lucky with some engine geek who actually knew the computer technology.

Running nicely for now ...

NOW the important detail ... I am looking to sell ....
2005 Chrysler 300C - Navigation - Leather - ONE OWNER - Markham / York Region Cars For Sale - Kijiji Markham / York Region Canada.

I want to purchase a Dodge Ram 1500 to do some towing. Sad to sell the 300c but it is TIME and need a truck.
 

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Most of the suspension parts are available aftermarket through the likes of rockauto at reasonable prices, just go with the better brands like moog. Pedders is great if you want to upgrade over stock but their stuff is pretty pricy down here in Austraila. Changing ball joints and the like is pretty easy to do yourself if you are that way inclined and shouldn't be that expensive in terms of labor cost if you get someone proffesional to do it. Just remember to get an alignment when you are done.
 

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Most of the suspension parts are available aftermarket through the likes of rockauto at reasonable prices, just go with the better brands like moog. Pedders is great if you want to upgrade over stock but their stuff is pretty pricy down here in Austraila. Changing ball joints and the like is pretty easy to do yourself if you are that way inclined and shouldn't be that expensive in terms of labor cost if you get someone proffesional to do it. Just remember to get an alignment when you are done.
I have bought from rockauto before, great prices. Thanks for your help. I have a 5 year unlimited alignment program. I get one with every oil change.
 

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I guess from the responses, front suspension is the problem with this heavy car. Be prepared to replace these pieces every few thousand miles. This car will be no doubt be a classic car someday, but it's not gonna be an easy ride to maintain.
 

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I wouldn't have thought suspension wear and tear was any different to any other car out there, we are talking cars with 100,000+ miles here. Havent had to replace anything twice yet, touch wood.

There are guys out there who have experienced transmission failures and of course the electronics could be a bigger issue down the track so there are other things to think about.

One other thing I would like to add is that I reckon from my rides, the 2006 build quality is better than 2007, this might just be something with the export models but there are a number of areas where you can see some evidence of cost cutting. Just little things like the 06 has more leather in the seats and a better finish on the wheels.
 

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I wouldn't have thought suspension wear and tear was any different to any other car out there, we are talking cars with 100,000+ miles here. Havent had to replace anything twice yet, touch wood.

There are guys out there who have experienced transmission failures and of course the electronics could be a bigger issue down the track so there are other things to think about.

One other thing I would like to add is that I reckon from my rides, the 2006 build quality is better than 2007, this might just be something with the export models but there are a number of areas where you can see some evidence of cost cutting. Just little things like the 06 has more leather in the seats and a better finish on the wheels.
yeah the chrome wheels on my 07 are a joke. They started peeling right around the time my factory warranty went out (go figure). I like my car but will never ever buy a 300 again.
 

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I bought my 06 with 100k. I have 120K now. I have replaced the upper control arms (100 for the set) it was used from an 2010 challenger with only 4k on them. I did the inner tie rods (140 from dealership) and outer tie rods (49) on ebay. I have flushed out the transmission at the dealership at 100k (150 at dealership) I do the oil every 5k with mobil one. the only weird thing i was hit with was the immobilizer. the car would not start. it was the key nor fuel nor battery. $700 dollars later i was back on the road. this happened at 104k. Hope this helps.
 
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