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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently took off my intake and throttle body, I re-installed it all, and started it up. I have an " electric volt" light flashing come up on the dash, also the ESP light. The engine either idles rough, or idles high. I remember reading something about re-setting the throttle, is this what I should do? Engine is a 3.5 v6.

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Throttle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconne


Have you checked for codes? Also you might want to check any electrical connections that might be loose around where you worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haven't checked for codes yet, I'll check wiring tomorrow, then reset throttle calibration. Was there something floating around about calibrating the throttle body, aswell?

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I dunno flea, I can't remember. Did you just clean the TB out is that why you had it off? See how it goes when you check the connector contacts and do the cal. Maybe even disconnect the battery neg for a while first before you do the cal. See how all that goes first.
 

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Sorry flea I don't know. Sorry I can't help any further with that. Hopefully someone who knows a bit more can suggest something.
 

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Throttle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconne


Have you checked for codes? Also you might want to check any electrical connections that might be loose around where you worked.
These steps DO NOT do anything for throttle body calibration or resetting of it. To recalibrate the throttle body, you need someone with a starscan (1st gen), a witech (all), or autoenginuity software with the enhanced Chrysler pack.

Try disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes or pull fuse 11 (IIRC that's the right number)
 

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Take battery post off car battery tie both post together so that they touch each other for 2-4 hrs. Make sure you have no other battery install such as system battery. If so disconnect as well. After put back on bettery make sure battery is fully charged as well before reconnect. Then turn key to on without cracking repeat 4 times then do the resetting procedure for throttle resetting. This should fix your issues.
 

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I think he meant take the battery CABLES off, as it's pretty hard to take the battery posts off the battery and, putting them together would short the battery out. As far as the procedure in Post No. 2 goes, it really won't do anything lasting and, it also won't hurt anything. Have at it if you want. Some folks swear by it though. The correct way to reset the throttle on our Chrysler "fly by wire" throttle bodies is to use a diagnostic scanner that has the capability to run the factory type "relearn". This procedure calibrates the throttle body to the PCM so they're both basically "talking the same language" as far as throttle position.

Did you have your TB off and/or did you "clean it", or did this just start happening? Do you have a catch can on yours? How many miles are on it and which engine are we talking about? What kind of oil are you using.....fossil or synthetic?
 

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I think he meant take the battery CABLES off, as it's pretty hard to take the battery posts off the battery and, putting them together would short the battery out. As far as the procedure in Post No. 2 goes, it really won't do anything lasting and, it also won't hurt anything. Have at it if you want. Some folks swear by it though. The correct way to reset the throttle on our Chrysler "fly by wire" throttle bodies is to use a diagnostic scanner that has the capability to run the factory type "relearn". This procedure calibrates the throttle body to the PCM so they're both basically "talking the same language" as far as throttle position.

Did you have your TB off and/or did you "clean it", or did this just start happening? Do you have a catch can on yours? How many miles are on it and which engine are we talking about? What kind of oil are you using.....fossil or synthetic?
I'm having same issue I took mine off to clean it and I have a 5.7 I used synthetic oil and I have 112,000 mi on it I don't use the catch can do you know what I can do to get mine to start running right
 

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I also cannot get y car to start, however I have done some extra work. Took off intake, throttle body, heads to do a cam shaft swap. Now only starts with gas pedal pressed, then dies as I let go. I winder if it's the same issue - I tried throttle body reset procedure (not using the scanner)
 

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I'm having same issue I took mine off to clean it and I have a 5.7 I used synthetic oil and I have 112,000 mi on it I don't use the catch can do you know what I can do to get mine to start running right
What procedure and type of cleaner did you use on the throttle body? This has happened to many Hemi folks and most of the time it's caused by both the procedure and the type of cleaner used.
 

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I also cannot get y car to start, however I have done some extra work. Took off intake, throttle body, heads to do a cam shaft swap. Now only starts with gas pedal pressed, then dies as I let go. I winder if it's the same issue - I tried throttle body reset procedure (not using the scanner)
On yours, are you sure the tune shut off the downstream O2's? I'd be surprised if they did, as this is part of the emissions system and, if caught, the fines would put them out of business. In any case, with long tube headers, you should leave the rear O2's alone and just install anti-foulers between the sensors and the bungs in the headers. In most cases, this will eliminate the O2 codes. I doubt that your issue is the throttle body. If it is starting and then shutting down in a few seconds, I'd look at the security system (Wireless Control Module) and such. If it doesn't shut down after a few seconds, you need to use a high end scanner and see if you can get some live and freeze frame data so you can see what is going on.
 

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If this was immediately after the cam swap, you should pull the valve covers and make sure all the pushrods are seated.

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MagnuMan, It was an email tune, and as he stated he tried three revisions to get rid of it, but It never worked. Still have the codes. Unfortunatly there is only one hole for O2 sensors, which I filled eoth primary O2 sensors. secondary I just cut off.
I dont think issue is security related, because if I start car with gas pedal and hold it at 2,3,4 whatever rpm for say 20 seconds, it will ALWAYS die as soon as it hits 1k rpm

Jasper, both pulled on weekend, pushrods seem seated and tight. Also, when installed, I rotated engine manually a few times to ensure valves opened proper
 

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MagnuMan, It was an email tune, and as he stated he tried three revisions to get rid of it, but It never worked. Still have the codes. Unfortunatly there is only one hole for O2 sensors, which I filled eoth primary O2 sensors. secondary I just cut off.
I dont think issue is security related, because if I start car with gas pedal and hold it at 2,3,4 whatever rpm for say 20 seconds, it will ALWAYS die as soon as it hits 1k rpm

Jasper, both pulled on weekend, pushrods seem seated and tight. Also, when installed, I rotated engine manually a few times to ensure valves opened proper
Your headers should have two O2 Sensor bungs before the cats and two after the cats (4 total)......one before and one after the cat. for each cylinder bank. If it's not set up that way, there is no way it'll work correctly.
 

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Your headers should have two O2 Sensor bungs before the cats and two after the cats (4 total)......one before and one after the cat. for each cylinder bank. If it's not set up that way, there is no way it'll work correctly.
I got no cats, so I don't have downstream O2 sensors. They are cut off (cats and wires for Down Str. O2 sensors). Still don't think this is the reason for no start, but you're right, they wont work correctly.
 

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I recently took off my intake and throttle body, I re-installed it all, and started it up. I have an " electric volt" light flashing come up on the dash, also the ESP light. The engine either idles rough, or idles high. I remember reading something about re-setting the throttle, is this what I should do? Engine is a 3.5 v6.

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Have you checked your EGR and PCV valves for clogging or possible tubing damages?
It's obviously a vacuum leakage or an electric connector or wire shorting.
 
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