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Again, why did you replace the throttle body? Did you hook it up to a quality computerized diagnostic scanner to see if it was bad? Other engine management components may actually be causing thIs problem. IMO, a good scanner is worth its weight in gold with ANY newer computerized vehicle. It'll save tons of $$$ chasing your tail, and needless heartaches.

What's going on now is that your PCM is going into "safe mode" because something is wrong (probably another component in the ETC or engine management system) and it won't let you operate the throttle much more than a little above idle, or maybe idle only. There is probably nothing wrong with the new or old TB. Unless you run the diagnostics on this, you'll probably be at a loss at figuring it all out.

That being said, try to disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes and then hook it up again. This is the "poor man's" way of doing a PCM reset. Then see if anything changes. If nothing changes, get your hands on a good scanner and do a complete scan of all modules. This type of problem can also be associated (or caused) by other problems within the power train and/or because of the other codes. That's why it's important to scan all modules to see if there is something that is causing this. Any other problems/codes should all be resolved and cleared before proceeding..
 

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Again, why did you replace the throttle body? Did you hook it up to a quality computerized diagnostic scanner to see if it was bad? Other engine management components may actually be causing thIs problem. IMO, a good scanner is worth its weight in gold with ANY newer computerized vehicle. It'll save tons of $$$ chasing your tail, and needless heartaches.

What's going on now is that your PCM is going into "safe mode" because something is wrong (probably another component in the ETC or engine management system) and it won't let you operate the throttle much more than a little above idle, or maybe idle only. There is probably nothing wrong with the new or old TB. Unless you run the diagnostics on this, you'll probably be at a loss at figuring it all out.

That being said, try to disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes and then hook it up again. This is the "poor man's" way of doing a PCM reset. Then see if anything changes. If nothing changes, get your hands on a good scanner and do a complete scan of all modules. This type of problem can also be associated (or caused) by other problems within the power train and/or because of the other codes. That's why it's important to scan all modules to see if there is something that is causing this. Any other problems/codes should all be resolved and cleared before proceeding..
My mechanic said i need a new throttle and he has a scanner id like to think a good one lol but i already reset it it was good for 2 days and now its shutting off when im driving
 

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Is that all the mechanic did is put the scanner on it.....no more troubleshooting? It always amazes me that so many mechanics take what the scanner says as GOSPEL, when many times it's the farthest thing from the real problem(s).

Not to jack the thread, but I had a similar issue with a shop. This is only the first time I ever took my 05 Hemi LX (or any of my vehicles) to a shop. Short story......NAG1 transmission worked perfectly one day and then limp mode (P0733, 3rd gear ratio) the next day, so I did the routine troubleshooting and couldn't find anything definitive. I talked to a knowledgeable Mercedes mechanic and he said 95% of the time it's the conductor plate. Took it to a "reputable" shop and they did the same thing I did....check the fluid level, scan, reset code, drive a few times. After that he said it needed a new transmission for $3000 plus. I thought, BS, so came home and researched some more and finally swapped the Transmission Control Module (the brains of the tranny) with my SRT and BINGO, the transmission worked fine. Installed a new TCM and it works as it always did. How much more would they have charged when the new transmission wouldn't have fixed the problem??? Cost to fix was just about $300....big difference.

IMO, moral is to use due diligence when troubleshooting and be sure to research and and be very thorough and, most of all, don't trust a mechanic that believes ONLY what the scanner says, and doesn't do any more troubleshooting than using the scanner.
 
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