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Hi All- Anyone thinking about or planning to install a toilet paper by-pass oil filter on their new 300C's? You can read about it here:

http://www.wefilterit.com/index.htm

Back in the early 70's, I worked for someone that installed these filters on the inside wheel well on all his vehicles. Every 1-2 months he would change the roll of toilet paper, add a quart of oil, and his oil change was done (a five minute job). He never completely changed all the oil that I'm aware of, and the oil was never dirty......it was always perfectly clean. This guy never had problems with his vehicle engines and he absolutely swore by them.

I see that they started making these things again a couple of years ago.

Here's a loaded question.....what do you guys think about this?
 

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This is a loaded question indeed. You will certainly void your warranty (unless you remove all that stuff before you take it in for the rebuild). My neighbor received $500 from champion labs for engine damage from a walmart supertech filter on his 200K corolla. How much will you get from the maker of this contraption for your ruined Hemi :eek: ? I am a huge fan of synthetic oils, high quality synthetic media filters (Amsoil,Mobil 1), filter and oil pan magnets, and 7500 mile intervals. A friend has a Jeep with 196K and a Maxima with 175K using non syn Valvoline and budget filters and burns NO oil. Synthetics offer an extra margin but in the real world I think many other components will wear out before the engine. Bottom line; what do you hope to gain by using a$$ wipe to filter your oil. My brother in law's F150 has 257K and burns NO oil. Do you think a TP filter could double that? Let's say it could, your water pump,fuel pump A/C, NAV, trans, wheel bearings, diff, alternator,starter etc would have forced it's sale long before you realize any potential fantasy benefits. Check out my thread and links for oil filter magnets for some real benefits at no risk to the engine or warranty :cool: .
 

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Though filters do remove particulate from your oil. Acids still saturate the oil from the combustion. Normal oil filters do not remove such corrosives from the oil. I had a 2000 prowler that I just sold with 1500 miles on it. I also had dealer reciepts for 8 oil changes. Twice a year weather its needed or not. Oil is one of the cheapest preventive maintenance items we can buy.
 

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Can't argue with twice a year for your baby. Are these changes with synthetic? I think Joliet gets as cold as the proverbial witches tit, what oil and weight do you use in the winter? I usually change my own oil but I too like dealer receipts for documentation. My local dealer charges $19.00 and If I bring my own Mobil1 and filter they will knock off $6. Wal-Mart has 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 for $19.32 so cost is not an issue.
 

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My neighbor just completed his Amsiol bypass on his S2000 and a pre lube, sweet! I plan to keep the Hemi longer than any car I've had (said that about the RX8 and it's gone) but I don't think I'll go that aggressive on the oil system. Gotta get the car first hopefully by the end of next week.
 

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Keep in mind the MDS requirs two oil paths in this engine. ANY change to the oiling sytem and you could be asking for problems. I thought the "Toilet Paper Filter" was discredited in the late seventies! Car and Driver did a thing about it 6-7 years ago. It's bunk. Just change the oil regularly, use a synthetic if you must. Why void the warranty for a oil bypass?
 

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II kings 9:20 said:
Can't argue with twice a year for your baby. Are these changes with synthetic? I think Joliet gets as cold as the proverbial witches tit, what oil and weight do you use in the winter? I usually change my own oil but I too like dealer receipts for documentation. My local dealer charges $19.00 and If I bring my own Mobil1 and filter they will knock off $6. Wal-Mart has 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 for $19.32 so cost is not an issue.
kings - What grade product did you use? I don't see a 5W20 in Mobil 1 as recommended.
 

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Funny you should ask, I was going to use M1 5w30, dealer said it was fine to use and 5w20 was for Cafe requirements like Honda and Ford. A forum member pointed out that thicker oil may affect the MDS??? I went with Amsoil 5w20 synthetic two weeks ago at 1900 miles. I subsequently learn in the thoughts on synthetic thread that the 7500 XL Amsoil in the 5w20 we need is not real synthetic :mad: , It is reformulated regular oil unlike thier 100% syn in their series 2000. Some are using M1 0w20, others Castrol syntech which is not a real synthetic although they say so on thier label, or very expensive Redline 5w20. If 0w20 is an alternative listed in the manual, the M1 is a no brainer. I am going to change the fake synthetic amsoil 5w20 after my next road trip Labor day. It's specs are good, but not worth the syn price given they can call it synthetic based on a court order. If I were to run non syn, I would go with Valvoline or Motorcraft and save the money. I am a synthetic guy, but I want Full fynthetic, not some reformulated pretender
 

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I heard about these "Dunny" roll filters (Dunny is Australian slang for Toilet) on Diesel Trucks years ago. One thing I did not hear tho' was that you don't ever change the Oil?

Also, I would be concerned about the lint circulating in the oilways and generally around the engine. Could be a potential for blockage somewhere?
 

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BrilliantBlackHemi said:
I will look at the ability to install the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filtration System on my Hemi sometime. Got to get the car first.
the diesel boys(pickup) run these ,,,, the first time I saw a diesel truck with perfectly clean oil BLEW MY MIND, I asked how many milies, he said 25000,,,, gettting this system on my Cummins pickup in about 8000 miles,,, we have a 20000 mile break in.......
 

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The TP filter is fine in theory but as one person pointed out, acids will build up over time. Another problem is that additive levels will deplete over time,
leaving you with non detergent lawn mower oil in your 40K ride. It will look clean though! The guy rebuilding it at 100K miles will marvel at the cleanliness of the oil as he scrapes the gunk off the internal surfaces. :eek:
 

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I agree, my plan is to go with 0w20 Mobil 1. My dealer also said 5w30, they have absolutely zero experience with MDS and are in no position to make an intelligent comment on the issue. If you are using synthetic,I really doubt 5w30 would hurt but I too have zero experience with MDS and really don't know sh*t from shinola about this system long term. Regular 5w30 is different all together and may "coke" or sludge up the MDS system. I really think the 5w20 is all about Cafe, but DC strictly advises against premium fuel in the Hemi, 89 is preferred and 87 is OK so who knows if 5w30 is ok long term. I would like the manual to say 5w30 is ok just as it says synthetic is ok.
 

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I will look at the ability to install the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filtration System on my Hemi sometime. Got to get the car first.
Had to bring this back since I just added on the amsoil bypass.

I just added on the amsoil bmk13 remote dual mount kit and 10" filter. Purpose: to get cleaner oil and reduce oil changes...

This is a well built kit but I do have my concerns. Anyone getting this kit should find a place to mount it. I found only one place (without much disassembly), on the frame under the air filter. My concerns are that my oil pressure has dropped under load. I've read a few reasons for this but find them difficult to explain a 15psi drop. Usually under load (cruising the freeway) I have a 55psi. Now under load I have 40psi. I will call amsoil tomorrow to try and get an explanation. I would have expected a small drop due to the length of the line run from the filter's old location to its new location, but not that much. Anyone wishing to drop in their $.02 may do so. I will post after speaking with amsoil tomorrow. The drop is less at idle (Usually 24, now 21).
 
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