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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone else experienced the transmission slipping into a neutral position when you decelerate then try and accelerate but only the RPMs rise and the car does not engage in any gear? The car shows that the gear is still in drive but feels like it just when into neutral. I maually shifted the car to neutral then back into drive and that seemed to work. The car check engine light came on but did not stay on, any answers???
 

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unusual

I haven't heard of this one yet.

Give us some more info on what you were doing when it occurred
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was driving along at about 70km then the car engine switched to Fuel Saver Mode and dropped to 4 cylinders, then I tried to accelerate and the rpms shot up with the aceleration but the car did not as if it was in neutral and you were reving the engine.
 

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I've had this happen while trying to get unstuck in the middle of winter, i think its a safe-mode type thing, as to not burn out the tranny, but if thats happening to you while driving, you should go get that checked.
 

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Bringing back an old thread.

I'm having this issue now. I'm seeing a P0734 Incorrect Gear Ratio error code. I'm covered under the Massachusetts Lemon Law still so it's going back to the dealer.

It's a 2007 SRT8 with 32,000 miles.

Does any one have any thoughts on this issue?
 

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Bringing back an old thread.

I'm having this issue now. I'm seeing a P0734 Incorrect Gear Ratio error code. I'm covered under the Massachusetts Lemon Law still so it's going back to the dealer.

It's a 2007 SRT8 with 32,000 miles.

Does any one have any thoughts on this issue?
i found this info on the LX forum hope this helps you.



Service InformationValvebody

Part Numbers:


  • 52108213A$
Issue Description:

Do not replace the entire Valvebody for an ISOLATED ELECTRICAL ISSUE such as solenoid, speed sensor, or temperature sensor. Also, do not replace the entire Valvebody due to damage of the 13 pin electrical connector. The leadframe itself P.N. 52108308AB contains all the circuitry, speed sensors, and temperature sensors and should be ordered and replaced preventing the unnecessary replacement of the entire Valvebody. In the event of a solenoid fault, you may also want to replace the specified solenoid.
There is a known issue with a 3-4 shift flare or Neutraling out on the 3-4 shift. In most cases this event is accompanied by a P0730, P1731, P0734, and/or P0733 Incorrect Gear Ratio codes. The cause of this event is ferrous or Aluminum debris in the 3-4 Shift Pressure and/or 3-4 Holding valves. Rather than replacing the VB;
1.) Remove the solenoids, leadframe assembly, and bolts securing upper to lower valvebody
2.) Lift upper housing off the VB and turn over. No need to clean the lower housing.
3.) Remove the steel endplate covering the all the 3-4 valves.
4.) Remove the 4 valves and flush out the bores and valves with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Contamination is known to be very small. Hold the housing vertically and flush the bore out generously. Flushing over filter paper (coffee filter) will allow you to observe the debris.
5.) Re-assemble the VB and re-install to roadtest.
6.) Only if the valves are still sticky after the flush or if the 3-4 shift issue persists, should the VB be replaced.
LOP 21-95-01-51 provides 1.2 hours for this repair.
The NAG transmission uses the wheel speed sensors to calculate transmission output shaft speed. If encountering gear ratio errors or late upshifts, please verify all four tires are of proper size as well as front and rear axle ratios. Mismatched tires can cause the module to think the vehicle is turning a corner, and thus delay an upshift. Numerous unnecessary transmission replacements have occurred due to a spare tire, aftermarket tire of incorrect size, incorrect axle, or incorrect gearset in proper axle.
 

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I know the trans is a smart trans that will change shift patterns when it is getting to hot to keep it from getting damage. I would say if it was hot out and you were in heavy traffic might do weird stuff but shouldn't under normal conditions.
 

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jetech - thank you so much. This is awesome. I'm sure that this is it.

speedrules - It's definitely been hot in the northeast this summer but nothing out of the ordinary. It happens even in the first 5 minutes of driving.

I'll post an update when I get the car back.
 

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I wanted to update this thread with the work that was done to my car. This problem has been resolved and the car feels great. It was fixed under warranty by the selling dealer. Below are the parts replaced and the costs. I hope this helps someone in the future.

The dealer was not able to fix it so it went to a dedicated transmission shop.

Parts
Planetary Carrier Assy - $242.00
Output Shaft - $354.00
Sun Gear - $339.00
Overhaul Kit - $410.00
Converter - $365.00
ATF - 47.60

Labor
R&R & Recondition Trans. - $1,041.30

Total w/ tax
$2,908.75

Do you transmission guys have any thoughts on this work? Was it overkill? Were they just replacing stuff because they couldn't find the root cause? I'm curious to see what everyone thinks. I hope this helps someone else down the road.
 

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I believe that they were just replacing everything to see what worked. The car is back at the shop right now. It has all the same behavior but is not slipping in to neutral. I'm hoping that's a good sign.

I love the car but there's just no way I can keep it if this keeps up.
 

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any word as to the trouble you having im having the same kinda issues ..my cars tranny was rebuilt and still having issues i can drive it come to a stop then start to drive and tranny slips if i stop turn the car off and restart the motor it drives fine but only works for a few miles and does it again sometimes before it does that it will shift really hard like slamming gears and when it does this i dont get a check engine light .....im into this tranny now almost 6000$ if you or anyone else can help .. now the shop says they got codes ?? i will post the codes im getting in a lil bit
 

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the shops said this is the code po717
 

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The PO171 code is related air/fuel ratio. Google for the code and you'll get a lot of info. That wouldn't be related to the tranny though.

I had two issues related to my transmission that sent it back to the shop.
1) Mechanical issue in the tranmission: There was a groove in one of the parts between 3rd and 4th gear that was causing a hesitation when shifting.
2) Electrical: The computer had to be re-calibrated. This was causing the wonky shift points and hard shifts.

I don't completely understand the mechanics of auto transmissions so excuse my vagueness.

Illnoize, I was having a lot of the issues you describe. They were all solved by recalibrating the onboard computer. The shop I had the work done at did it under the warranty of the original work. The tip-off to me that it was computer-based was that when it would have a lot of trouble, the car wouldn't let me shift into the manual mode. The computer knew it was having an issue and therefore blocked it.
 

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they re calibrated the onboard computer like 5 times still the same trouble and a new tcm to IM AT LOST AS OF WHAT TO DO NEXT
 

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they re calibrated the onboard computer like 5 times still the same trouble and a new tcm to IM AT LOST AS OF WHAT TO DO NEXT
Just had the same exact issue, but after a few on off cycles, malfunction light off and ECO back. Drives fine, but I don't knw if I should look into it further.

It is a bit scary when you can't trust a car; next one is stick!
 

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I am having the same problem it has occurred 3 times since Jan 14
while at stop it shifted into neutral and when shifted to neutral and back to drive it was ok and the engine light came on also. it has 67,000 miles on it.
Did you ever change the tranny fluid and filter?
 
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