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Anyone who had the neutral slipping issue fixed please respond

2008 chrysler 300C just bought used from California dealer within the last month. Car slips into neutral while driving on freeway at its own will. Typically its when there is some stress on the tranny like an abrupt stop or abrupt acceleration. Requires me to pull off the freeway and put car into park and back into drive. Check engine light comes on but disappears before i can take it to the shop. This is extremely dangerous and has happened multiple times.

Random people who dont own, dont work on, arent familiar with, or havent experienced this issue, please do not respond with silly things like "have you changed your transmission fluid" I am not interested in brainstorming over this, this is obviously an issue with the Chrysler 300s hence this entire thread and I am looking for specific answers as to what people who have fixed this issue have done, like a couple posts on the previous page.
 

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2008 chrysler 300C just bought used from California dealer within the last month. Car slips into neutral while driving on freeway at its own will. Typically its when there is some stress on the tranny like an abrupt stop or abrupt acceleration. Requires me to pull off the freeway and put car into park and back into drive. Check engine light comes on but disappears before i can take it to the shop. This is extremely dangerous and has happened multiple times.

Random people who dont own, dont work on, arent familiar with, or havent experienced this issue, please do not respond with silly things like "have you changed your transmission fluid" I am not interested in brainstorming over this, this is obviously an issue with the Chrysler 300s hence this entire thread and I am looking for specific answers as to what people who have fixed this issue have done, like a couple posts on the previous page.
Hi zact,
Could you please PM me your VIN so I can look into this concern further?
 

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2008 chrysler 300C just bought used from California dealer within the last month. Car slips into neutral while driving on freeway at its own will. Typically its when there is some stress on the tranny like an abrupt stop or abrupt acceleration. Requires me to pull off the freeway and put car into park and back into drive. Check engine light comes on but disappears before i can take it to the shop. This is extremely dangerous and has happened multiple times.

Random people who dont own, dont work on, arent familiar with, or havent experienced this issue, please do not respond with silly things like "have you changed your transmission fluid" I am not interested in brainstorming over this, this is obviously an issue with the Chrysler 300s hence this entire thread and I am looking for specific answers as to what people who have fixed this issue have done, like a couple posts on the previous page.
Just had this exact same thing happen to me about 20min ago. Was on the PA turnpike going about 70mph and just cruising along. Went to casually pass a car and noticed I wasn't accelerating though I had the pedal slightly applied (again not looking to fast pass, just get around the car). Blipped the throttle a few times and it definitely responded like it was in neutral even though it was in drive. Turned on hazards and tried to put car in neutral and then back in drive but still same issue.

Fortunately was able to get to emergency lane without getting hit. Turned off car, turned back on, put in reverse, and it engaged. Was able to then go into drive and get home (no limp mode). Tranny light is on and car does not go into Eco mode when maintaining stable speed. Taking to shop this afternoon because I'm nearing the end of my 3k/3month warranty (bought used, 2010 300C AWD hemi with ~85k miles on it). Already had it there once for ABS sensor, this one though has me VERY worried....

I see someone said wheel sensors could be the culprit. Wondering if I should replace the other rear one since I've now got a new one and a not new one. Just afraid if this is a legit tranny issue and I'm covered by limited warranty I don't want to mess around...

btw, this is my first post in the forum, sadly it's not for modding recommendation but problems already.....
 

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When was the tranny last serviced?
 

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When was the tranny last serviced?
I don't know. It's coming up on it's 90k mile work but I was hoping to at least get another month or two before that was done. I have an OBDII BT scanner coming tomorrow, and am trying to find parts for the other 3 ABS sensors to rule that out. The local Chrysler shop has a backlog of 2 weeks so I have time (driving my wife's minivan until I'm sure it's safe/intermittent enough to drive on).

Is there a thread with brand and where to buy the ABS sensors?
 

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I don't know. It's coming up on it's 90k mile work but I was hoping to at least get another month or two before that was done. I have an OBDII BT scanner coming tomorrow, and am trying to find parts for the other 3 ABS sensors to rule that out. The local Chrysler shop has a backlog of 2 weeks so I have time (driving my wife's minivan until I'm sure it's safe/intermittent enough to drive on).

Is there a thread with brand and where to buy the ABS sensors?
Well the recommended service interval for the tranny is 60K miles, so yo are long past due!

I was at 63K when mine acted up. Had it serviced at 63K and not a lick of trouble with it now at 82K.
 

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OK thank you very much. I'll have to check back and see if that info was in the service records. This was a pre-own from Chrysler dealership. I know it had some maintenance work done on it (spark plugs, etc.) but not sure about tranny stuff. It will be getting it's 90k work done shortly (I normally do all this work myself but want my trusted garage to do the first big once-over).

On better news (I've been taking the wife's car to work) she had to go somewhere yesterday and took the car. Prior to this the tranny light was staying on and the Eco-thing would not engage. Said the tranny light was NOT on anymore, didnt' remember if the Eco message turned on or not, so hopefully this was a glitch. I have a BlueTooth OBDII scanner that should arrive today (plan to use Torque), so before I drive I'll make sure there isn't any major issues, and still plan to replace the other 3 ABS sensors so I know that won't be a near future issue (I believe this was also a possible cause from reading this and other threads).
 

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UPDATE: My scanner came in (insanely awesome btw...I'll post the link at the end in case anyone is interested) and I was able to see a stored code even though the tranny light went off and everything seems to be working OK. It was 0730, incorrect gear ratio (see pic). I'm hoping the ABS sensor (new and old) made the CPU think something was wrong when it really wasn't. Cleared the code and will keep an eye on it. But will be getting car 90k serviced just as soon as the limited warranty expires next month.

scanner I bought from Amazon for $22. I use a free Android app called Torque (currently using free version but they have a $5 premium version that does more things). Allows you to scan and clear codes but also allows you to drive around with it active showing all sorts of information live.
Edit: Dunno what poster after me means but if it was in reference to a link I've removed it. Been around car forums for 15 years so I'm not here to spam (Probetalk, LS1tech, etc. same screen name).
 

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2005 300c Went neutral under normal driving coasted to stop. No drive no reverse no codes, nothing. Shut off 5 min and back in drive, shifting very arratic then limp mode 38 mph max.
Shut off, wait, drive a mile neutral. Did this 10 miles. Pull codes, P0700 and speed sensor. Check fluid quite a pain but ok normal at 180 degrees hot. Next check connector plug adapter and
yes it was leaking, pulled apart flushed break cleaner reinstalled and nope. Runs fine cold, get hot and neutral. Ok ordered connector plate with filter and gasket with OEM Mopar adapter plug from rock auto. Connector plate off amazon for Chrysler NAG1 or Mercedes 722.6 both are same plate. My old OEM plate was stamped Mercedes 722.6. So Chrysler in thier infinate wisdom does not put a drain plug on the tranny pan so prep accordingly, put down carboard and a nice big wide lip drain pan. If your jacking it up and doing it on your back like me, and please use jack stands!
DONT use air tools or electric drill to first initial loosen T30 torx heads the risk of stripping out very great after they break free fine zip them out all but 2 and let it drain. While it's draining disconnect connector from adapter plug clock wise on the ring. If oil soked flush it with break clean and blow it out. Next 7mm deep well in the adapter plug to unscrew center nut from connector plate. Drop pan and look at magnet, should be covered with a fine black powder of magnetic filings, if its doing its job and your tranny has 115,000 like mine. Also paid for a filter and fluid change 40,000 ago but was OEM mercedes filter, wasn't done at Mercedes or Chrysler so should have been aftermarket at best. Ok 10 T30 leave last too loose to drain then carfully left doen and drain remaing into pan. Then onto a clean bench match your parts, set your solenoids on table the way they came out, flush them with brake clean and blow dry. Ohm check them I checked you tube for ohm value about 4 ohms but they are not all the same so watch a video or 2. After 1 for 1 swap and reinstall, torque to 72 inch pounds and clean your mating services as they are metal to metal. Replace the filter make sure your in the groove and pan gasket. When tightening the 7mm adapter plug into the new conductor plate remember it can be snug not gorrila grip or you'll hear a snap. That does mean your good, that means you cracked the conductor plate so order another one. Luckily I didn't crack mine I added 7 quatrs of ATF+4 then walked through the gears. Let it get hot in neutral radiator fan cycled, checked fluid and 55 mm added up to 70mm for 180F. Moment of truth....

OOPA!! Success drives like a dream.

My actual problem was my 7 mm bolt on the inside of the adapter plug was not tightened at all and the adapter pins had backed out enough when hot to open my torque converter solenoid circuit. So can a adapter plug and connector plate cause a neutral only when hot, yes it can. I fixed mine for $100 not the $4000 every tranny place I called said, as all of them advised I needed a new transmission, they have see it hundreds of times. Well if it works fine sometimes, thats a clue as worn out and blown doesn't ever get better. I hope that helps someone!
If I can do it you can too.
 

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2005 300c Went neutral under normal driving coasted to stop. No drive no reverse no codes, nothing. Shut off 5 min and back in drive, shifting very arratic then limp mode 38 mph max.
Shut off, wait, drive a mile neutral. Did this 10 miles. Pull codes, P0700 and speed sensor. Check fluid quite a pain but ok normal at 180 degrees hot. Next check connector plug adapter and
yes it was leaking, pulled apart flushed break cleaner reinstalled and nope. Runs fine cold, get hot and neutral. Ok ordered connector plate with filter and gasket with OEM Mopar adapter plug from rock auto. Connector plate off amazon for Chrysler NAG1 or Mercedes 722.6 both are same plate. My old OEM plate was stamped Mercedes 722.6. So Chrysler in thier infinate wisdom does not put a drain plug on the tranny pan so prep accordingly, put down carboard and a nice big wide lip drain pan. If your jacking it up and doing it on your back like me, and please use jack stands!
DONT use air tools or electric drill to first initial loosen T30 torx heads the risk of stripping out very great after they break free fine zip them out all but 2 and let it drain. While it's draining disconnect connector from adapter plug clock wise on the ring. If oil soked flush it with break clean and blow it out. Next 7mm deep well in the adapter plug to unscrew center nut from connector plate. Drop pan and look at magnet, should be covered with a fine black powder of magnetic filings, if its doing its job and your tranny has 115,000 like mine. Also paid for a filter and fluid change 40,000 ago but was OEM mercedes filter, wasn't done at Mercedes or Chrysler so should have been aftermarket at best. Ok 10 T30 leave last too loose to drain then carfully left doen and drain remaing into pan. Then onto a clean bench match your parts, set your solenoids on table the way they came out, flush them with brake clean and blow dry. Ohm check them I checked you tube for ohm value about 4 ohms but they are not all the same so watch a video or 2. After 1 for 1 swap and reinstall, torque to 72 inch pounds and clean your mating services as they are metal to metal. Replace the filter make sure your in the groove and pan gasket. When tightening the 7mm adapter plug into the new conductor plate remember it can be snug not gorrila grip or you'll hear a snap. That does mean your good, that means you cracked the conductor plate so order another one. Luckily I didn't crack mine I added 7 quatrs of ATF+4 then walked through the gears. Let it get hot in neutral radiator fan cycled, checked fluid and 55 mm added up to 70mm for 180F. Moment of truth....

OOPA!! Success drives like a dream.

My actual problem was my 7 mm bolt on the inside of the adapter plug was not tightened at all and the adapter pins had backed out enough when hot to open my torque converter solenoid circuit. So can a adapter plug and connector plate cause a neutral only when hot, yes it can. I fixed mine for $100 not the $4000 every tranny place I called said, as all of them advised I needed a new transmission, they have see it hundreds of times. Well if it works fine sometimes, thats a clue as worn out and blown doesn't ever get better. I hope that helps someone!
If I can do it you can too.

And how many miles were on it since last fluid and filter change?
 

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Well I had it done about 20,000 miles ago but the build up on the magnet and Mercedes emplem on filter
leads me to conclude, that the easy lube place I went to, only sucked out the fluid. A full 60,000 service was
done at chrysler when I had 65,000 miles on it.
 

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Yuck, that is pretty bad.
I refuse to ever use those quicky lube type places because they have people that barely know what a wrench is doing the work.
They literally hire high school kids and teach them how to do it

They did a friends car and forgot to put coolant in, and forgot to put the oil cap back on.
I went to check out the burning oil smell for them and ended up doing the service for them.
Fortunately they had not driven the car very far when I ran into them in the grocery stores parking lot.
 

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I was driving along at about 70km then the car engine switched to Fuel Saver Mode and dropped to 4 cylinders, then I tried to accelerate and the rpms shot up with the aceleration but the car did not as if it was in neutral and you were reving the engine.
I was driving up the interstate bout 70mph all of a sudden when I was switching lanes hit some rough pavement ,,no potholes or anything. . But mine went into neutral , but was still in drive . No noises or anything . I’ve seen all the posts about the same problems.. this is what happened to mine .. the center bolt that bolts the yoke in the transmission.. it got loose and backed out . Never a vibration or anything. I guess when I went across that ruff pavement. The yoke came out of transmission. No noises or anything. I was lost .. check that bolt on back of transmission. It can pop out and then yoke pop back in and be fine .
 
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