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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

Apologise for such a long post but I really need your help! My wife has several hospital appointments due to some pregnancy complications and I need to sort out the car ASAP.

I own 300c 3.0 CRD 2006 LX.

Current state:
  • Car dashboard says “service park assist”
  • Transmission shifter stuck in ‘park’ however I can move to ‘D’ when pushing the secret pink button on the side. There is a speed limit with only 1st gear working.

History:
One day I went to the local gas station. After top-up, and 5min of calm driving suddenly most of the dashboard lights turned on like a christmas tree + service park assist + the charging voltage was around 17Volts. So I pulled to the side immediately and called for recovery to the local garage.

Symptoms then:
When pushing the gas pedal the voltage was going up above 17-18V until the whole dashboard backlight went off. The backlight was coming back on when releasing the gas pedal while the voltage remained around 16-17V.

Repairs done to date:
At the garage, the mechanic disconnected the battery while the car was running and the tested voltage on clamps - was 20.2 Volts. There were signs of oil on the alternator so he replaced it and charged £580. When I came to collect the car thinking all is sorted I couldn’t drive off because the shifter was stuck in park - this issue wasn’t there when I left the car at the garage before! When I was leaving the car, the gearbox was working except the excessive voltage in the system. When I raised the issue with the mechanic upon collection, he started being rude and aggressive saying it is not his fault, he just changed the alternator and that’s it. After a quick research, he said it might be the solenoid, but he cannot get the part so I need to take the car, because it is not safe at his place. He can replace the solenoid for free once I’ve got the part.

I took the car home, checked visually all the fuses in the front and back and found only 1 burnt, but the car shifter is still blocked.

I’m not planning to go back to that mug head mechanic anymore due to the way he treated me therefore can someone please direct me?

after watching this video:
it seems it is not the 'pink thingy' issue, but rather shifter solenoid - am I correct? When I’m pushing the brake pedal I cannot hear any ‘clicking’ noise. Where can I find that solenoid? What is part No.?

What else I could sort out myself? When looking at the active error codes… Is my car totally messed up now?
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg error codes_20210612-132112_Autel MaxiAP200.jpg
 

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I have to preface my post by saying that I'm in the Colonies, and I've never been within a hundred miles of a CRD. Likewise I've no knowledge of your consumer protection laws. Sorry about that!

It seems very likely that you had an issue with your EVR, or electronic voltage regulator. Unfortunately, the EVR isn't a part you can replace, it's a system used by the PCM, the alternator, and PDC to keep the voltage within specs. What little I know about the EVR is that a failure should trigger a DTC, but I don't know specifically which one.

The fuse you replaced is for your power outlet and is unlikely to be related to the problem. In fact, if you don't use the power port, it may have been burned out for some time.

Certainly the alternator could be or have been the problem. Likewise, the increased voltage could have damaged the solenoid as your mechanic seems to be suggesting.

In terms of your experience with the mechanic, I think the question remains as to what exactly you paid for. If you simply instructed the mechanic to replace the alternator and not to diagnose the problem, then I suppose he would be within his rights to say, "I just replaced the alternator, at your request". If, on the other hand, you said, "My car has some sort of problem, can you take a look at it and tell me what is wrong?", then I would say that the repair, and indeed even the diagnostics, are not complete. If you paid £580, I presume that diagnosis was included. Granted, the part may not be a common one in Britain, but just for reference, here an alternator replacement would have been something like a $300 job, or £212, give or take.

I think the first thing I would do is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes (remove it if necessary) and perform a proper load test. Once you're certain the battery is good and that it is fully charged, reconnect it and check the chassis grounds and PDC terminals carefully to be sure that all are clean and tight. You might be surprised at the absolute havoc that a loose or corroded chassic ground or PDC terminal can cause.

Once those steps have been performed, monitor your voltage on the EVIC and note the results, and see if after two or three drive cycles the problem resolves itself. Then you'll be in a better position to decide whether or not to deal with the sketchy mechanic again or look for another shop to replace the BTSI solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi CtCarl, thanks for the reply
I think the first thing I would do is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes (remove it if necessary) and perform a proper load test. Once you're certain the battery is good and that it is fully charged, reconnect it and check the chassis grounds and PDC terminals carefully to be sure that all are clean and tight. You might be surprised at the absolute havoc that a loose or corroded chassic ground or PDC terminal can cause.

Once those steps have been performed, monitor your voltage on the EVIC and note the results, and see if after two or three drive cycles the problem resolves itself. Then you'll be in a better position to decide whether or not to deal with the sketchy mechanic again or look for another shop to replace the BTSI solenoid.
I took the battery out for the night and charged. The mechanic left it at approx 20%. The battery is 2 months old. I drove 3 times today. with the motor OFF it shows 12.4V When driving with the lights ON and AC at full output it keeps steady 14.6V so the new alternator seems working.

BTW that mechanic binned my alternator splash guard cover saying the engine must breathe. Now I need to buy new one but its not available anymore :(

I 've checked for any loose cables within the boot around the battery and all seems firmly fixed.

The shifter is still locked unless I push the side button with the only 1st gear working. Apologise for the silly question, but can you please elaborate on "check the chassis grounds and PDC terminals"? Where it is and how to check it?
Do you know the part No. for BTSI solenoid?
 

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Hi there. Just a thought - will the car change gears if you put it into semi manual mode, ie using the +/- gearstick function?
 

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Apologise for the silly question, but can you please elaborate on "check the chassis grounds and PDC terminals"? Where it is and how to check it?
Do you know the part No. for BTSI solenoid?
Dirty, loose or corroded grounds...I believe you may call them "earth connections" in Britain...can cause all manner of problems. I can't tell you where they all are (there are dozens) on a CRD, but you can start with the highly visible ones near your engine compartment jump start terminal. There should also be at least one connecting your firewall to the rear of your engine block or heads.

The PDC terminals are where power connections are made to your "fuseboxes". Just take the covers off, the terminals are large and obvious.

Sorry I don't have the solenoid part number. You should have no trouble looking it up online, but if you do, any Chrysler dealer can give it to you.
 

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Shouldn't be advertising if not available. Have you tried contacting by phone or email to ascertain if new stock is expected? I've bought a number of items from this shop and had very good service. In the meantime you need to be careful when topping up oil. Best to do your own oil changes, just to be sure, and check overhead fuel pipes regularly for leaks.

My alternator failed after about 30k miles, didn't have a shield fitted, but no signs of any oil contamination. The brush/slipring assembly is protected with an internal shroud, however one brush/slipring was worn to a frazzle but the other was pristine. I came to the conclusion that the original alternator must have been faulty from new.
 

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The last alternator shield I bought came from my local Fiat dealer. Give them the part number and see if they can get one: 04801798AA
 
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