[jaysrt8300]

I having some trouble with my car. I have developed the violent front end shake when applying the brakes it is not consistent and only happens if I get on the brakes hard. Shaking goes away when the vehicle slows down. I have replaced brake pads, rotors, control arms ball joint steering rack, and outer tie rods. I am in the process of replacing front end bushing with poly bushing. I only got the tension struts done and we do the lower control next week. Anyway, I toke on the freeway after replacing tension struts bushing car has never shaken the hard a day in its life. My last effort is to finish replacing the front end bushing with poly bushing and rebuild front calipers because I notice a hard pull to the right when braking. I am spinning my wells on the one tires are new and balance rims are not bent I switched them all out with ones off a brand new 300 just to see if a bent rim was the issue

PLEASE HELP I AM JUST THROWING MONEY AT THIS Point

 

[CtCarl]

I don't think any amount of polyurethane bushings are likely to address your problem. I'd suggest you look for a modern alignment shop that can perform on-car balancing, and start there.

 

[jaysrt8300]

Thanks for the advice but have have swapped all four rims a tires with another vehicle and problem is still present

 

[Korben]

You had an alignment done after doing this work right?

Inspect your tires carefully for uneven wear and in particular check for feathering.

Feathering - To check for feathering place your hand on the top of the tire and push in out across the top of the tire. Feathering is sharp edges on the side of the tread blocks. If this is present it will tend to grab your hand more going one way or the other. This is such a good and easy indicator of issues that I do it daily as a matter of habit.

 

[jaysrt8300]

@Korben alignment was done after work. Tires are about 2 months no uneven wear.

 

[Korben]

@Korben alignment was done after work. Tires are about 2 months no uneven wear.

Feathering can appear very quickly, less than 100 miles. This is one thing that makes it such a good indicator and why I check so often. It'll immediately indicate an alignment issue before tire wear occurs.

I assume tires were purchased in an attempt to solve the problem and not before the problem started?

Where do you most feel the shake and in what direction?

 

[jaysrt8300]

@Korben The tires were not installed to fix the issue everything else yes

 

[CtCarl]

Thanks for the advice but have have swapped all four rims a tires with another vehicle and problem is still present

Didn't check the link, I'm guessing. Did you swap the hubs too?

 

[jaysrt8300]

No I didn't they didn't have any excessive play and spun freely

 

[CtCarl]

No I didn't they didn't have any excessive play and spun freely

That doesn't mean they aren't out of balance, or that the wheel and the hub are properly indexed.

Please read the article I linked to.

 

[jaysrt8300]

Okay I will check when it on the rack tomorrow.... Is it possible that a seized caliper can cause this issue?

 

[CtCarl]

Indirectly, maybe. But if you can take your hands off the wheel while braking and the car tracks straight ahead, I don't think you've got a seized caliper.

 

[jaysrt8300]

Car pulls to the left when I step on the brakes

 

[CtCarl]

Car pulls to the left when I step on the brakes

Sounds like you have multiple problems.

You didn't notice that one caliper was sticking when you changed the pads and rotors?

I still think it's more likely the hub assembly is causing your shaking issue, but this might be a good time to replace the calipers.

 

[rickwhoo]

If it pulls when you brake, it's the calipers. Replace them

 

[rickwhoo]

Also check to see if one of the rotors is blued from getting hot from the sticking brakes.

 

[JBIKER]

First question : did you tighten/ TORQUE, the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket after adding the 3 drops of blue locktite ??? 2). when you installed the new pads , did you forget to install the new stainless steel retainer pieces that the pads ride on ???? 3) did you torque the wheels after you got the car back on the ground ? 4) I'm assuming you replaced the rotors when you replaced the pads, did you "BED " THE NEW PADS ? AS PER NORMAL BREAK-IN PROCEDURES ?? 5) when you retracted the caliper pistons so they allowed the new pads to fit , did you happen to notice the distance they were extended out of the caliper....like were the old pads metal on metal on the inside of the rotor ? If they were then replace the calipers ....multitude of reasons ...just do it !!!

 

[megatec45]

I having some trouble with my car. I have developed the violent front end shake when applying the brakes it is not consistent and only happens if I get on the brakes hard. Shaking goes away when the vehicle slows down. I have replaced brake pads, rotors, control arms ball joint steering rack, and outer tie rods. I am in the process of replacing front end bushing with poly bushing. I only got the tension struts done and we do the lower control next week. Anyway, I toke on the freeway after replacing tension struts bushing car has never shaken the hard a day in its life. My last effort is to finish replacing the front end bushing with poly bushing and rebuild front calipers because I notice a hard pull to the right when braking. I am spinning my wells on the one tires are new and balance rims are not bent I switched them all out with ones off a brand new 300 just to see if a bent rim was the issue

PLEASE HELP I AM JUST THROWING MONEY AT THIS Point

It sounds like your left caliper isn't engaging, causing the pull to the right. Was the system bled properly? Did you lubricate the caliper pins with the special high temp grease? The caliper could be sticking. It sounds as if the shaking went away after all the parts were replaced and now you have the pull to the right. The problem before the part change was probably from a warped rotor.
But the problem now is probably from air in the brake line, a bad caliper, or a caliper that won't slide properly on the caliper pins.

 

[megatec45]

It sounds like your left caliper isn't engaging, causing the pull to the right. Was the system bled properly? Did you lubricate the caliper pins with the special high temp grease? The caliper could be sticking. It sounds as if the shaking went away after all the parts were replaced and now you have the pull to the right. The problem before the part change was probably from a warped rotor.
But the problem now is probably from air in the brake line, a bad caliper, or a caliper that won't slide properly on the caliper pins.

If you reused the original caliper pins, they could be damaged from the heat that caused the warped roter. Replace and lubricate the new pins.

 

[sierraskibum]

I having some trouble with my car. I have developed the violent front end shake when applying the brakes it is not consistent and only happens if I get on the brakes hard. Shaking goes away when the vehicle slows down. I have replaced brake pads, rotors, control arms ball joint steering rack, and outer tie rods. I am in the process of replacing front end bushing with poly bushing. I only got the tension struts done and we do the lower control next week. Anyway, I toke on the freeway after replacing tension struts bushing car has never shaken the hard a day in its life. My last effort is to finish replacing the front end bushing with poly bushing and rebuild front calipers because I notice a hard pull to the right when braking. I am spinning my wells on the one tires are new and balance rims are not bent I switched them all out with ones off a brand new 300 just to see if a bent rim was the issue

PLEASE HELP I AM JUST THROWING MONEY AT THIS Point

I would review the brakes some more. If the new pads or rotors are not right, that could be the problem. I use Centric Posi Quiet brake pads. Usually the semi-metalic sometimes ceramic. They don't have the beak in problem some pads have as they are scorched or broken in when you buy them. Of course the rotors need to be true.