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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Wet sanding is the most aggressive way to remove scratches in the finish and should NOT be attmepted unless you know what you are doing. Sometimes this is nessesary, procedure here was 3000 grit, then 2000 grit, high speed rotary with Meguiars Heavy duty cleaner, followed by fine cut cleaner, then dual action cleaner polish, switch to DeWalt 443 with SSR1 polish, then my sealant.
 

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Would wet sanding work on smoothing out the factory paint job and getting rid of the "orange peel"? This is defineitely not something I would attempt myself so I would take it to a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I could not open that link that Hemmissey posted, but I would use caution in wet sanding, I only do it in extreme cases. I would try less aggressive methods first,,like, compounding/buffing Gary
 

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Try claying the car. Before i put my 300C away for the winter i clayed the whole car, polished it and then put a coat of wax on it. It looks awesome and the paint is smooth as glass.
BBSRT8 said:
Would wet sanding work on smoothing out the factory paint job and getting rid of the "orange peel"? This is defineitely not something I would attempt myself so I would take it to a professional.
 

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Wet sanding a factory finish is very risky. Your lucky if the factory puts a comple mils of clear over the basecoat. It would be very easy to sand through the clear into the basecoat. If this occurs you'll be left with a ring. I remember a post from a member who had it done. It cost him something like $1500 or so. Remember also when you wet sand & buff your using a fine grade compound to bring back the gloss. In the process you are removing mils of paint. The end result will less UV protection and possible paint deterioation down the road. If you want a smooth finish I would recommend having a bodyshop scuff the car down with a fine 3m scuff pad and add 2 coats of clear then wet sand & polish. Your result would be a show car finish!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
amen to that, Avon, have you noticed a difference in the thickness of clear coat from one car company to the next? Gary
 

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Definately. Lexus / Toyota has the best paint jobs out there. Unfortunately I have to say Chrysler does not. Way to much "orange peel" for my taste. Easy fix for me, not so easy for the rest of you guys.
 

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They changed paint and vendor awhile back and seem to make everything with orange peel now. My 1999 300M didn't have this issue.
 

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BrilliantBlackHemi said:
They changed paint and vendor awhile back and seem to make everything with orange peel now. My 1999 300M didn't have this issue.
Thats more of an application issue. In fact most OE manufactures use more than one paint company for coatings. For example Dupont, BASF, PPG Thats why most cars have many different paint variations. When brand a paint is done its hooked up to Brand B's tanks. Sometimes when I look up a formula there may be 5, 6 or more different formulas for the same paint code.
 

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turbomangt & Avon Custom Wheels -

Here is what I was thinking. I have that orange peel look to my Brilliant Black Magnum. It for some reason kinda bothers me. I have seen cars that the finish looked like glass. Now would that be a function of the clear or from the surface prep prior to painting ?

Would a wet sanding and re spray of the clear fix this ? or is it more involved fix ?

-Robert
 

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Robagd,

In order to properly reclearcoat your car it first has to be disassembled. Once that is done the car can be scuffed with a 3m grey scuff pad and scuff paste. From there after masking you could then add 2-3 coats of a urethane clearcoat. This then could be wet sanded with 1500-2000 grit sand paper prior to buffing. A job like this could easily cost 2k and up wit the wet sanding & buffing, disassembly etc. The finish product however would rival the best paint jobs out there, at least it would if it came out of my shop. LOL.
 

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ACW -

Since you seem familiar with this, I've got a question for you.

I've got some pretty nasty orange peel on my Cool Vanilla C. (Link to hi-res 2272x1704 image.) I've considered possibly having it wetsanded, but am not willing to part with $2K for a respray.

Have you had any experience with just wetsanding the exisiting clear? Do you know if the existing clearcoat is typically thick enough for some wetsanding, or is it foolhardy to even think about removing the clear?

I plan on keeping this car for 10+ years. I'm über-obsessive about paintcare - car has never been washed except by hand (mine), and gets the Klasse twins applied every 6 months. Garaged or covered with a Weathershield HD cover... I live in Phoenix.

Your thoughts? Is it worth considering just a wetsand, or do I really need to reclear if the orangepeel bothers me that much?

Thanks in advance for you thoughts....
 

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Orange Peel

Forgive me for asking, but what is "orange peel." I looked at the high resolution pic, but didn't notice anything......
 

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CottyGee
I am with you on the orange peel thing. Every time I wash my car, I look at it and it drives me nuts. I am almost to the point of taking it in and having them try to wetsand and buff it out or reclearcoat it if neccessary.
 

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Bearbacker42 said:
Forgive me for asking, but what is "orange peel." I looked at the high resolution pic, but didn't notice anything......
Bb42 -

Take a look at the photo again - fullscreen. Study the finish of the paint, looking at the reflection. Do you see how the reflection isn't smooth? The surface looks like the surface of an orange, slightly smoothed. THAT is orangepeel, and pretty bad orangepeel at that (but not at all the worst).
 

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CottyGee,

If you plan to keep the car then you have to understand that sanding & buffing will remove mils of clearcoat. By doing this you are also subjecting the paint to premature faillure do to UV damage, especially in Arizona! As a profesional bodyshop I would not recommend this to anyone. Not saying there are not shops out there that wouldn't do it. There is so little paint on todays cars that there is a real good chance that by sanding the clear the shop would buff right through what was left. I would never do it since I would then be responsible to repaint that panel if it happened. Most modern bodyshops use a high solids urethane clear nowadays. When I'm doing a normal collision job I shoot 2 coats. When I'm doing a custom job I shoot 3-4 coats. This way when I color sand I will have enough material on the car to sand the finish flat ( get rid of the orange peel) and buff to a high show quality shine. I understand about the 2k though, but my opinion is don't sand & buff and OEM paint job.
 

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Thx for the reply, ACW. That's what I had been told, but when you said, "Easy fix for me" I thought maybe you meant just wetsanding. The opinion of the shop I talked to was just what you said. But I thought maybe you were saying the clear was applied really thick, hence the orangepeel...

Oh well! Just gonna live with it. Thx again for the reply.
 
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