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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just picked up a Silver Steel Metallic 300C SRT8 yesterday for MSRP. I did a quick spray and wipe detail at the dealership. I took down my own products. I didn't let them touch the vehicle after I arrived. :biggrin:

The paint is in excellent condition so I won't need to polish out any cobwebs. I was thinking about 3-6 coats of sealant topped with 2 coats of carnauba paste for some warmth and depth.

What products would work well on this shade of grey metallic?

Here is a couple of shots of a quick detail I did on my Copperhead. 1 coat of Finish Kare FX-100 Spray Glaze topped with 1 coat of Poorboy's Nattys Blue.

I will do a more complete exterior detail when it cools down some. It's still reaching over 100º here.

Thanks,
John





 

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Copperhead#100/ even new cars should be clay barred. Do the plastic bag test to see if contaminants have rested on your finish. after you wash and dry your car, get a plastic sandwiche bag and gently touch your finish and move around. if you feel bumps, or roughness, it needs to be clayed. Next step is a paint cleaner and paint seal. check out my web site www.perfectautofinish.com for info on that. My sealant goes on all the Lamborghini's/Ferrari's and Lotus at the dealer ship I do some work for. More importantly, the 300 club is happy with the product. Typcially dealers make a TON of money on paint sealant packages. They capitalize on over charging uneducated customers, and sadly they sell lots of paint seal packages as high as $900 an application around here. You don't need to layer the product like many people think. two coats is more than enough (24 hours inbetween) top wax is optional, just remember you can't seal on top of wax.
Your viper is a beauty. I heard they are expensive to maintain. It would be a close race between your SRT 8 and the viper. Gary
 

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The Copperhead looks great.

For the Silver 300C, it doesn't take anything more special than any other paint. I have plenty of proven free tips on my web site, and recommend Collinite 915 Carnauba wax for your cars. the clay advice is good, any new car can have contamination. You can use your bare hand to check for contamination unless you have no nerves left and it is all scar tissue. Wash the car, dry, and lightly rub the surface with the palm of your hand. If the surface feels baby skin smooth, you can skip the clay, but it won't hurt to do it anyway. If you feel ANYthing that is similar to sandpaper, that is what clay is for. Follow the directions.

I recommend using a good glaze even on new cars, to keep ahead of the super fine marks that can get in the most cared for finish. All it takes is some salesman to lean against the fender or another customer to touch the surface with some dust on it.

Follow with a good wax and you should be set to go.

I am not a fan of building up coats of wax, or different products. Pretty much a coat of any wax or protectant is all you need, more and more coats don't really build up or add that much protection. YOu just wipe them off.

Congrats on the new purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the compliments on the Viper and the deatiling tips.

I am fairly new to detailing to any extreme. So far the only experience I have with any sealants is on my 70 Olds 442 that I inherited from my dad in 81. He purchased it new 10/02/69. I applied 8 coats of Z2 (not pro) Zaino last year after we performed a year long restofication out back. I am planing on striping it and trying something different this year.

I am new to the claying process as well. I did clay the Viper although the paint seemed to be clean after performing the plastic bag test.

Thanks,
John





 

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Marlinspike,

The 915 is not the same wax as the aircraft wax. Collinite is an American company that has made specialty waxes for over 60 years now in Utica NY.

the owner saw some companies getting a hundred dollars or more for exotic carnauba waxes (Zymol) and set out to make one equal to their best at a fraction of the price. 915 has the highest concentration of carnauba he feels is possible and still be easily spread. Somewhere around 50% but he considers the exact number proprietary.

As with most wax companies they sell a lot of varieties, but I only sell two of them, the best paste, and their top selling liquid. But you can go directly to them and get the other versions if you wish. They make waxes for airplanes, boats and even one for use on high tension electical lines to prevent linemen from getting shocked (don't ask me how that works, but they sell a bunch of it!).
 

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So would you say the collinite you sell is better on cars than their airplane wax? I ask because over on the Mercedes Benz Club of America forum a guy was talking about how great this Collinite airplane wax he used to buy was but that he can't find it any more.
Richard
 

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I haven't really compared personally the aircraft wax with the 915 I recommend. Basically, in talking with the owner/manufacturer of Collinite, he says the best auto wax he sells is the 915, case closed. That is the market I sell to so that is the product I sell the most of. I carry a couple of their liquid waxes for people that just have to have a liquid.

Let the guy on the Mercedes list have this info:

Collinite Corp.
www.collinite.com
315-732-2282

In all my literature I don't see an aircraft wax listed, so they may not make it, or maybe it is just in a separate list/brochure that I don't get because I don't market to airplane owners. In any case, have them contact Collinite directly.

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turbomangt said:
I guess I'm old, just found out a few weeks ago that "SICK" is a good thing. Someone looked at my ride and said it was sick and I almost got pissed. Then he added, that hood is cool that its Sick. hmmmm, Now I get it. Gary
Haha this reminds me of how I had to explain to my dad what I meant when I said that the SRT-8 is "bad"
 
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