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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys, i'm trying to hook up my sub and amp using a hi/low output converter and have everything hooked up but i'm having a little bit of trouble. i need to know which wire to tap into with my remote wire so my amp can power up when the radio comes on. also, initially i hooked up my remote wire to the rear speaker positive wire and the amp powered up, but... the sub will only hit when the volume is set to low. as soon as i turn up the volume the sub stops hitting. what could be the problem? i'm hoping it's just my remote wire and that i gotta tap it into a better power source. thanks guys!
-brian-
 

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apbrian112 said:
hi guys, i'm trying to hook up my sub and amp using a hi/low output converter and have everything hooked up but i'm having a little bit of trouble. i need to know which wire to tap into with my remote wire so my amp can power up when the radio comes on. also, initially i hooked up my remote wire to the rear speaker positive wire and the amp powered up, but... the sub will only hit when the volume is set to low. as soon as i turn up the volume the sub stops hitting. what could be the problem? i'm hoping it's just my remote wire and that i gotta tap it into a better power source. thanks guys!
-brian-
You can't connect to any spkr wire. The amp needs to see 12 volts for the duration that the radio is on. The problem is that the factory amp doesn't seem to have a remote connection. The best alternative is to connect to the pink/white in the ignition harness which will power the amp as long as your key is on. The only problem is that if you don't turn the radio on, then you will get a loud hum through your subs. As long as the radio is on, then it should be fine.
 

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hey wes. yeah, i figured that part out. i was like :confused: for a while there (i've always run my amps through an aftermarket deck). well i didn't want to tap into the wiring harness (since i didn't know which one to tap into) so for the time being i attached the remote wire to the radio fuse and that seems to be a temporary fix until someone designs a drop-in kit so that i can install my kenwood receiver into the stock slot. ah well... thanks for the info! :)
-brian-
 

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Tap into the signal at the FM signal amplifier on the passenger Cpillar connected to the window antenna. Then your amp will turn on when the radio on. This also works when the radio is in CD or Sirius mode also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^^^ thanks for the info. i'll definately look into that.
-brian-
 

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How does everybody else have it?? I forgot how I set mine up :) I'll check tonight, oh no wait, it's still in the shop :eek: I will have back by Friday hopefully... ha, can you imagine that I got a ford focus as the loaner?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the rear speaker wires. i forgot which colors, just do a search for "wire colors" and there should be a little diagram.
 

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well you can NOT hook up the remote wire directly to the fuse box as some people have said. this will cause a constant flow of power to your amp even when the car is off. now i gotta figure out which wire is the correct wire to splice into for the fm signal amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
instead of hooking up to the fuse (radio or amp), hook it up to the pink/white wire (like wes said) that comes out of the fuse box. there's a bunch of wires coming out from the fuse box, just find the right one (pink/white) and tap into it. the only thing is you only get power to the amp when the key is in the "ON" position. you don't get power to it in the "ACC" position.
 

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apbrian112 said:
instead of hooking up to the fuse (radio or amp), hook it up to the pink/white wire (like wes said) that comes out of the fuse box. there's a bunch of wires coming out from the fuse box, just find the right one (pink/white) and tap into it. the only thing is you only get power to the amp when the key is in the "ON" position. you don't get power to it in the "ACC" position.
and that is correct, so the amp turns on when the car turns on, which in my case that is all cool and dandy... good luck, lets us know how it goes...
 

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well it was going well until i noticed something strange. my bass will hit harder sometimes than not. it's like: bump bump bump, BUMP BUMP BUMP. it fluctuates throughout the song. any suggestions? i can't figure it out... i'm really confused. i've never had so much trouble installing a amp and sub! of course every other time i was using an aftermarket deck. i just don't get it, i'll try toying around with it this weekend.
-brian-
 

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well it was going well until i noticed something strange. my bass will hit harder sometimes than not. it's like: bump bump bump, BUMP BUMP BUMP. it fluctuates throughout the song. any suggestions? i can't figure it out... i'm really confused. i've never had so much trouble installing a amp and sub! of course every other time i was using an aftermarket deck. i just don't get it, i'll try toying around with it this weekend.
-brian-
Wow I know this is a very old thread but it is the only one I found that has any info that pertains to my issue. I have my amp turn on wire hooked to the cigarette lighter ignition on fuse in my trunk. (2009 chrysler 300) It seems that my subs also fade out at times but if i hit the breaks or push in the cigarette lighter the subs will turn back on for a bit, maybe a second or 2 then i need to hit the breaks again? any ideas?
 

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Do you have anything else wired to the cigarette lighter? Where is the sub amp powered from?

There are 2 known fuses for a remote turn on:

fuse 18 (put in the ignition on position) - I'm assuming this is what you are currently using.

fuse 35 - related to the front dash but it is on with ignition. I've used this for my system.

You might try moving the remote turn on and making doubly sure you don't have another issue with wiring at your sub. Double-check the ground and make sure both the power and ground are solid.
 

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well you can NOT hook up the remote wire directly to the fuse box as some people have said. this will cause a constant flow of power to your amp even when the car is off. now i gotta figure out which wire is the correct wire to splice into for the fm signal amplifier.
This is completely wrong. There is a selectable fuse in the trunk that can have either accessory power or constant power depending on the placement of the fuse. I've got mine supplying accessory power and have had it like that for 2.5 years on two different gen 2 300's.
Oops. Just noticed this was an old thread prolly pertaining to a very old model now. Anyway, it's good to run to the fuse box now. I'll post a pic soon.
 

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You do realize the guy that posted that did so back in '05 even before I joined. My surprise was none of the experts chimed in to correct his point.


Also, for future reference, fuse 18 and fuse 35 in the rear PDC refer to the gen I cars.

The picture in MyFirstChrysler's post is a gen II, and shows the equivalent to fuse 18, which is fuse 12, in the accessory position. I don't believe there is an exact match for fuse 35 in gen II, but a possible candidate would be fuse 24.

So quick reference for remote turn on would be to use the selectable fuse:

fuse 18 - gen I
fuse 12 - gen II
 
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