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Hi great people of this forum! Im new here, please help! lol

I have a Chrysler 300 year 2008 and it's not starting, not even turning over.

I've had it happen maybe 5-6 mos prior. car would take 4-5 times from AAC to ON to Start before actually starting... after that i was good for a long time... Now until today

Here's the run down, the battery is GOOD, i checked voltage and had it checked at walmart to double check.
Lights come on in the dashboard like normal.
Check engine light is on, after I put the battery back in the trunk and put key in ignition to try and start it, the engine light started to blink...

Checked fuse box for damaged fuses... checked starter and ignition fuses, were okay i think... not sure how to tell...with these... usually the connector inside the plastic cap would be broken or burnt, these weren't... so im guessing they were ok... i pulled them and switched them around (same voltage & model fuses)

Not sure what the issues is... anyone have this issue? :sad:
 

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Welcome to 3CF. :wave: Sorry it's under these circumstances, but let's see what we can do...

First things first, if your engine light is on you should have some trouble codes. Can you pull your codes and let us know what they are?
 

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Welcome to 3CF. :wave: Sorry it's under these circumstances, but let's see what we can do...

First things first, if your engine light is on you should have some trouble codes. Can you pull your codes and let us know what they are?
Fisch, HI thanks for the reply! with the quickness...

I did a key dance, and the prompt came back ------... No codes... If theres a code I'm certain it should have popped up in the dashboard after the key dance... right?

Was this test of the battery a load test or simply a terminal to terminal voltage test?
Not a load test, just a T2T... I don't think it's the batt because it's generally new. but hey, things happen unusually.

I'll get a T2T done tomorrow...
 

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Forgot to mention, the check engine light blinks about 10 times then it stays on... This ONLY happened after I put the battery back in the trunk. *shrugs*
 

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The blink blink blink thing happens when reconnecting a battery. But get that battery load tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
relay hot

This relay was very HOT, without the car being turned on... i just went outside and looked under the hood for something and then i noticed it was HOT.. in the diagram i boxed it in red.

any insight? its not supposed to be hot like that i know, especially with the car being turned off and i hadnt messed with it for like 3-4 hrs :ugh1:


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[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]A hot relay is a bad relay. There are three possible reasons for a hot relay:[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

A bad cold solder joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
A bad crimp joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
Bad relay contacts.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

This all means that a point in the relay has resistance and when current flows through that point there will be a voltage drop which means work is being done and that work manifests itself as heat. Over time the bad joint gets worse due to the heat and maybe heat cool cycles, the resistance goes up, the joint gets hotter, the voltage available for starting goes down so it needs more current to do the same work so the joint gets hotter, it gets worse, well you get the picture. At its worst this kind of scenario can destroy other electrical equipment in the circuit because the low voltage condition causes a high current draw. Since this is in the starter circuit, I'd pull the relay and take it to the auto parts store.
[/FONT]
 

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[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]A hot relay is a bad relay. There are three possible reasons for a hot relay:[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

A bad cold solder joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
A bad crimp joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
Bad relay contacts.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

This all means that a point in the relay has resistance and when current flows through that point there will be a voltage drop which means work is being done and that work manifests itself as heat. Over time the bad joint gets worse due to the heat and maybe heat cool cycles, the resistance goes up, the joint gets hotter, the voltage available for starting goes down so it needs more current to do the same work so the joint gets hotter, it gets worse, well you get the picture. At its worst this kind of scenario can destroy other electrical equipment in the circuit because the low voltage condition causes a high current draw. Since this is in the starter circuit, I'd pull the relay and take it to the auto parts store.
[/FONT]
MADDOG, i truly appreciate all the insight and help... @Fisch too!

Too bad autozone nor OReilly have this part in stock... Gotta go to dealer, $35... I hope it works! I'll update in a few hours.
 

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Welcome to 3CF. :wave: Sorry it's under these circumstances, but let's see what we can do...

First things first, if your engine light is on you should have some trouble codes. Can you pull your codes and let us know what they are?
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]A hot relay is a bad relay. There are three possible reasons for a hot relay:[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

A bad cold solder joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
A bad crimp joint[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
Bad relay contacts.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]

This all means that a point in the relay has resistance and when current flows through that point there will be a voltage drop which means work is being done and that work manifests itself as heat. Over time the bad joint gets worse due to the heat and maybe heat cool cycles, the resistance goes up, the joint gets hotter, the voltage available for starting goes down so it needs more current to do the same work so the joint gets hotter, it gets worse, well you get the picture. At its worst this kind of scenario can destroy other electrical equipment in the circuit because the low voltage condition causes a high current draw. Since this is in the starter circuit, I'd pull the relay and take it to the auto parts store.
[/FONT]

got the battery load tested, came back GOOD. I replaced the start run/relay and four fuses... still not working...

My last guess is it is the key or ignition sensor? I replaced the key last July 2012 (brand new) but yesterday i put a new battery in it thinking it would work, still didn't...

Do you all have any insight/direction? may just pay the 95$ to get dealer run diagnostic... i think im throwing my hands up. maybe.
 

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Hmmmmm... Don't know what to say.

Any update on this?
 
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