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Let us see here. $19.95 for a 5 qt oil change. Or, "take in a 6 pack" of your own oil. Uhmmm, don't we have a 7 (seven) qt system? Not to take away from the viscosity discussion, but .........
 

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[QUOTE="C"for me]Let us see here. $19.95 for a 5 qt oil change. Or, "take in a 6 pack" of your own oil. Uhmmm, don't we have a 7 (seven) qt system? Not to take away from the viscosity discussion, but .........[/QUOTE]
Actually those of us running oversized filters use 7.5 qts, a case of Syntec is sold in 6 packs, I bought 3 (18qts), plenty for the next year's changes. The $19.95/5qt simply means you pay axtra for a larger capacity system, most oil change places are like this, my X5 also houses 7qts.
 

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swarick

Yes, a code will be set in the pcm. Just like if you leave the gas cap off or an engine sensor fails, the pcm does have a code for engine oil viscosity. Basicaly the pcm wants to see a certain oil pressure based on oil temperature and operating conditions. P1521 is the code number. Will it turn on the check engine light? I do not know.
 

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badss said:
Yes, a code will be set in the pcm. Just like if you leave the gas cap off or an engine sensor fails, the pcm does have a code for engine oil viscosity. Basicaly the pcm wants to see a certain oil pressure based on oil temperature and operating conditions. P1521 is the code number. Will it turn on the check engine light? I do not know.
I see, put in the wrong viscosity and have an engine malfunction then kiss your warranty goodbye
 

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Sigh, one would think the smart thing to do is if they went through the trouble of giving the computer the ability sense improper oil in it, that they could tell it to stay below a certain RPM or disable the MDS till the proper oil is put in..... They went 7/10s of the mile with that one..... Now they have a feature that will anger the consumer rather than help them..... Ohh well, still kinda cool the motor can watch for that

My 2 cents. =)
 

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I would like to think they would not put into production a system that could cause so many customers expensive problems in the near future, knowing the average I.Q. of the guy at the quickie oil place. Remember, 0W-20 and 5W-20 aren't much different. If too much viscosity is the issue, the only problem would be with 5W-30, or higher. Besides, if you have a 300C, why wouldn't you use synthetic...It's the cost of doing business. My only beef is that my Dealer for the first 3 changes used Mobil 1 0W-20, then on the 4th change gave me Castrol syntec 5W-20. My agreement with them was to use the same oil consistently. I think That is a much more important issue to overall engine health.
 

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Guys, I would be suprised if this "sensor" can determine with accuracy small viscosity differences, 5w20 or 0w20 or even perhaps 5w30 would be much more difficult to determine than the outside temperature which many of our cars can't even do (mine is ok now with v3.61). Think about it, as simple a device as a thermometer is and it's not accurate why should this viscosity sensor be any more accurate. Lwood, what does your dealer charge for a synthetic oil change? I agree with you fully on synthetic, the cost difference of the oil is laughable, I showed months ago in another post the difference over 100K miles is less than $300 (6K intervals). Other than not getting what you wanted and paid for, I would'nt worry too much about M1 vs Syntec, the metal alloys in your cylinders will appreciate the fact that synthetic is in there regardless of who makes it (as long as it's a full synthetic). It still vexes you though if you are an M1 guy to have a brand in there you don't want. Wal -Mart has 5qt Jugs of M1 for $19.86, you might pick up a few and bring it to the dealer (you should'nt have to, but if you want it done right...) and of course a discount for not using thier oil.
 

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I think the sensor is probably fine, some typical RTD or Thermocouple, but they have some silly software there that is trying to compensate for the car sitting in the sun, heat from pavement or engine bay, etc. Maybe if it was located somewhere else besides the front bumper area, like say the side mirror or rear bumper.
 

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Kings, every 7,000 (all highway driving) I pay $66.00 for Mobil 1, full fluid top off, tire rotation, "inspection" (a lot of this is BS I know), recall compliance from my 5 star dealer. Normally, it would be $79.00 but I know someone. So, if I had organic changes every 3-5K miles the difference in price between the services works out to about zippo. I'll pay the extra $$$ for the good stuff. Also, my tires after 15,000 and two rotations show 0 signs of wear or feather like others have.
 

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Lwood - how do they change the oil change frequency? My book says every 3k .... nothing about extending it to 7k. If you and your dealer have a "deal", will they backstep if you were to have a problem?

Oh Jeez, why did I say 3k? But still, how does it go to 7k?
 

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BrilliantBlackHemi said:
I think the sensor is probably fine, some typical RTD or Thermocouple, but they have some silly software there that is trying to compensate for the car sitting in the sun, heat from pavement or engine bay, etc. Maybe if it was located somewhere else besides the front bumper area, like say the side mirror or rear bumper.
Silly is right, I have had many many cars with outside temp readings that were quick and accurate for more than 10 years.
 

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LWOOD said:
Kings, every 7,000 (all highway driving) I pay $66.00 for Mobil 1, full fluid top off, tire rotation, "inspection" (a lot of this is BS I know), recall compliance from my 5 star dealer. Normally, it would be $79.00 but I know someone. So, if I had organic changes every 3-5K miles the difference in price between the services works out to about zippo. I'll pay the extra $$$ for the good stuff. Also, my tires after 15,000 and two rotations show 0 signs of wear or feather like others have.
I go every 6K per the manual (otherwise 7500) synthetic only. I agree with the tire rotation about 7500 much more crucial on a FWD, I get mine done at Wal-Mart for $1.50 that's right a dollar fifty per tire and they TORQUE IT TO SPEC and request you return in 50 miles to re torque, bet your (I know mine does'nt) 5 star dealer doesn't do this. I asked you this months ago, we got our cars about the same time and I only have 4400 miles, were on earth have you been going to rack up so many miles.
 

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Kings,
I drive about 60 miles round trip 6 days a week to that prison I call work. This is my primary vehicle (although when my wife and I go out it is usually her fuel efficient little Japenese car we take) and in June we took a 3,500 mile road trip back "home" to the midwest for a lot of reasons, one of which was the U.S. Grand Prix in Indy. I drive primarily on the highway, and the oil always has a chance to heat up to temp and stay there for a good period of time. So, I feel 7,000 interval is fine for me with the good stuff. I always rack up mileage on my cars, and they never let me down because they get fussed over...A lot like yours I bet, Kings!
 
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