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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I changed the oil on my 3SRT8 this weekend for the first time. I'm happy to report that this is one of the easier cars on which I've changed oil, & I've been doing it at home for nearly 40 years.
Due to the low ground clearance, my old ramps wouldn't work. I purchased a set of Rhino #11905 ramps (3000# capacity per ramp) at Walmart for $32/pair. They have a 17 degree angle, which is gentle enough to clear the front bumper. Total lift is about 6.5 inches, which gave me plenty of room to work (I'm a 3X). A rubber foot is mounted on the bottom front of the ramp, and did a good job of keeping it from sliding backwards on my concrete garage floor. Safety note- Don't forget to put chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent any rolling!
Once the car is on the ramps, you must remove a plastic shield (which hides the underside of the engine) using a 10mm socket on the four bolts (circled in pix). After that, the oil filter (located toward the front of the engine, on the passenger side) is easily accessed, and points straight down. The oil pan drain plug (circled in pix) takes a 13mm socket, and points to the rear of the car.
For this vehicle, the type of oil filter wrench that fits over the end of the filter & is used with a 3/8" ratchet & extension seems to work best.
Here is one from Sears which is nearly identical to the Snap-On brand, but at 1/2 the price:
Craftsman Universal Oil Filter Wrench, Auto-Adjustable - Model 51121SA706 at Sears.com
The "cup" type wrench, which is also used with a ratchet & extension will also work. You must get one that fits your filter (available at any parts store... match it up there).
Total cost of 7qts 5W-40 Mobil 1 & a Mobil 1 oil filter (#M204) was ~$40. I think I'll use the longer Mobil 1 (#M1-301) filter next time (eqiv to Fram PH8A--- BUT NOT FRAM) as there's plenty of room for it, and it will add another ~pint of oil & more filtering surface.
Is it worth the trouble to do it yourself? Yes, IMO, as I'm sure it's done right, at my convenience, and I can inspect other undercar items at the same time.
-Steve
EDIT: Forgot to mention in the original post, but since the filter screws straight up onto the engine, it is possible (and a good idea) to fill the filter with fresh oil before screwing it on. This gives the oil system a head start in pressurizing.
 

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Nice job, my feelings exactly about changing oil myself. I do it at my convenience, and I get a chance to inspect a few things while I am at it.
But the most important part of it, is I know that it is DONE RIGHT.
 

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Very nice, I appreciate the pics. The shield on the bottom is nice, keeps dirt off the engine and oil off the floor! Did the engine-side of the shield need cleaning when you removed it? I'll do my own, as well, except I'll rent a lift bay (~$3 :banana: :banana: ) to do it. Definitely does bring peace of mind to do it yourself. Not that that would be a concern with the oil this car takes, but I shudder to think of new oil being pumped into a car through a firehose, like at those quiky-loob type places. Blow a seal cause they put in a few extra quarts, and they'll swear you added the excess after you left the shop. No, you're right, Steve. If you want it done right, DIY! And $40-50 to DIY is cheaper, anyway.
 

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Did your SRT-8 take the full 7qts? Ours ends up at the full mark with about 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 qts.

Todd
 

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Nice, I do my own too. I imagine when you mentioned Fram you were referring to the size and not planning to use a Fram filter which is the world's worst. I use the M1 filter, have used the oversized Amsoil for an extra half qt but with 7 qts in there a half qt extra is not necessary and I use the stock size, however a bigger filter gives more filtering capacity and may be beneficial from that standpoint.
 

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Has anyone seen a cutaway display of a Mobil 1 filter? I've always used WIX filters ( or NAPA, same thing) after seeing a cutaway comparing WIX to Fram (pure junk) and Purolater (way better then Fram) but I'm contemplating using the Mobil 1 filter on My "C" and my dad's SRT8. I just want to know what's in there because Fram is proof positive that a bright color and a big advertising budget do not necessarily mean a good filter..... Anyone seen the inside of a Mobil 1 filter? If not I may just buy one and cut it open myself; it would be worth the 10 bucks or so to me.

p.s. One thing I might mention; no matter what brand filter you use ( except Fram!) I would only use the part number that the manufacturer specifies for the car. There could be other differences besides length , such as antidrain back valve (not really an issue since our filters are mounted vertically) but also pressure relief valves....some have them, some don't, different oil pressure ratings, etc.
 

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WhiteDiamond said:
Did your SRT-8 take the full 7qts? Ours ends up at the full mark with about 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 qts.

Todd
Maybe that Amsoil swells up in there.

Sorry Todd, had to say it :biggrin:
 

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HEMEEE said:
oh no, not AGAIN!!! :banghead:
How about you and Ekool set up some kind of auto-filter that will prevent any new threads containing the words 'oil' and 'change' in either the subject line or the body? This is getting rediculous.

:AR15firin
 

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Napa Gold is a great filter, I have done a cutaway on it, the Pure one and stock Mopar (purolator, not Pure One) some stock Mopar's are by :AR15firin Fram. Next oil change I'll try a cutaway on the M1 filter.
 

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Actually I think a "sticky" would be appropriate with an FAQ montage attached to it. This thread is actually a good one with pictures. (Not that's it's perticularly difficult to figure it out) but nonetheless will help this onslaught of beaten dead horse threads.


I can't wait until the glut of "Another windshield wiper change" posts soon to come. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
marnepup said:
Did the engine-side of the shield need cleaning when you removed it?
No, it seemed pretty clean to me... I didn't need to clean it off at all. Of course I only had 400 miles on the car, as I like to do my first change very early. But wait! DCX "recommends" ~3000 between changes! :11:

WhiteDiamond said:
Did your SRT-8 take the full 7qts? Ours ends up at the full mark with about 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 qts.
Todd- The oil level ended up right where it should be. You probably know this, but if you check the oil level before you start the engine after a change, you can expect the level to be high, since all the oil is in the pan. Once you start the engine, the filter will fill up with about 1/2 a quart and stay full, causing the pan level to drop that same 1/2 quart. Change your oil & filter, fill it with seven quarts, run the engine, let it sit overnight, & then check the oil level. This is the correct level on the dipstick for your engine. It's far more likely for a dipstick and or dipstick tube to be mis-marked or made to the wrong length than for a cast aluminum oil pan to be manufactured with the wrong capacity or dented. Maybe you could compare yours to another dipstick?
Side Note:
One thing I did notice with this engine, more so than others, is that it took about 30 minutes for the flow from the drain plug to slow to a drip (engine was warm/hot, as it should be). I know that the Jiffy Lube boys wouldn't keep a car on the rack that long.
-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
vvv90 said:
Awe hell....Let's all start using everything but what's recommended. Those engineers are fools anyway. :D
Per the manual, I would have used 0W-40 if I had anticipated that the ambient temperature in my driving area would be less than -20 degrees F before my next oil change. I did not, so I did not. Hence, I did follow the DCX recommendations, as outlined in the manual, and got to use my brain as well. :wink1:
-Steve
 

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vvv90 said:
Awe hell....Let's all start using everything but what's recommended. Those engineers are fools anyway. :D
This is good advice.....Hey Yarbie.....Can you try this out with your car and gives us some feedback on how your charger is runnin'! :biggrin:
 

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sjz said:
Per the manual, I would have used 0W-40 if I had anticipated that the ambient temperature in my driving area would be less than -20 degrees F before my next oil change. I did not, so I did not. Hence, I did follow the DCX recommendations, as outlined in the manual, and got to use my brain as well. :wink1:
-Steve


Well at least you kept the second and most important number the same. ;)
 

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sjz said:
Todd- The oil level ended up right where it should be. You probably know this, but if you check the oil level before you start the engine after a change, you can expect the level to be high, since all the oil is in the pan.
Steve,

On the first change, I just poured in the 7qts as the manual says. I had pre-charged the filter as best I could and then ran it and allowed it to warm up. On checking it after getting warm, it was over the line by almost 5mm or so. It is right at the mark now and on this change I actually slowly worked it up to the line. It is just under 6 3/4 qts and at the line.

Todd
 

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What you should do is, every time you change the oil, you put in 1 quart less that whats recommended. That way you get your 7th oil change free. Ok, now you can freeze this thread HEMEEE. Cecil........... :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
 

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oil...

speaking of oil...
I am still waiting for a reply from Amsoil...
telling me where they "get" their oil...
As I don't buy Exxon products either...
still no answer...
how would that be for irony Todd if they bought their oil from Exxon...

Hemeee - I am sorry I couldn't let it go...
I just couldn't...
bad Chris, bad Chris...

todd - playing!!!
relax!!!
 
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