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Discussion Starter #1
I love my 300c, but the 0-60 time is way off my expectations from what I have read, high 6's. Chrysler has touted 6.2-6.3. Other publications note times under 6.0. The dealership made sure I was current on Flash updates and say they checked other specs.

I have am running the recommended octane w/ the middle grade- always name brand fuel. I tried premium, but no noticable difference. The engine has over 7K miles.

Any ideas?
 

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Are you taking the shift out of D and putting it into 4 before launching? Are you disabling ESP? You need to do both as a baseline.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am keeping in D- either way you are in first gear, what is the difference? Also from one test I had read, maybe Road and Track, under specs, they noted leaving on the traction control gave better times.
 

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I'll let everyone else chime in that I've seen make the same point in other threads because the difference is actually noticeable to me when shifting from D to 4 before launch as well as leaving ESP off.
 

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Stuck the foot in my mouth on this one. I was thinking one thing and said another. Sorry
 

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Whoa...

mspeasl said:
Don't know where you got the idea that the car is an under 6.0 machine. Only one publication has it anywhere close to that at 6.3 all others are much higher. Also I haven't read anywhere that Chrysler says the car will run under 6.5.
I believe Road and Track had it clocked one time at 5.3 (in the special magazine they ran on the 300C) although they were not able to duplicate that on their second test,. Car and Driver clocked it at 5.9. This is all from memory, but I am positvie two different publications clocked it under 6 seconds. I think Motor Trend was around 6.1. Again this is all from memory, I think someone should be able to confirm. Also, many people on this board have clocked under 6 seconds. The launch is very important to get this time, also most people have accomplished these times by shutting ESP OFF and dropping the gear to 1 and let it run the redline and shift automatically. Also slightly power braking the car before the launch. There are multiple threads on getting the best 0-60 times in the performance mods forum
 

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SatinJay'd said:
I love my 300c, but the 0-60 time is way off my expectations from what I have read, high 6's. Chrysler has touted 6.2-6.3. Other publications note times under 6.0. The dealership made sure I was current on Flash updates and say they checked other specs.

I have am running the recommended octane w/ the middle grade- always name brand fuel. I tried premium, but no noticable difference. The engine has over 7K miles.

Any ideas?
Check your tire pressure. Make sure they are at spec. or a little under. ESP off. Autostick in first gear. Warm the tires. Powerbrake - Left foot on brake - bring revs up to where you feel the wheels starting to move - Bring up revs more - keep enough brake on to let the car "walk forward" with wheels spinning - this is warming the tires - drop revs to under 1800 - apply more brake with left foot - until car is stationary - get ready for the timed run.

From 1800 rpm FLOOR the gas pedal while releasing the brake. You do not want much wheelspin nor do you want any dip in rpm. With a little practice you'll have it perfected. It's easy with the C.

Once you floor it, let the car shift up on it's own. Your 0-60 time should come in at 6.0 or under, depending on the weight of the car including fuel, the asphalt, temperature, wind, and the luck of the draw.

Hope this helps.
 

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SatinJay'd

What are you using to measure the times?

Let us know if Northern's technique helps.

Zilla
 

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Torque converter is a torque multiplier if used for max effect. 1200 RPM's and release the brake, stabbing the gas. Torque converter spin's up (before lock-up). The flywheel effect helps to launch the car. With the narrow tires more consistant times can be had, with MDS on. No time to make the tires sticky with BMW pushing it hard. Cook the tires, and the MDS kicks in, and kills the engine and your times. Don't use MDS, and torque will smoke the tires, and kill the times. Not using the MDS takes nerves of steel, when the pressure is on. More likely to be looking at the BMW's tail lights. Wider or sticker tires than stock will require higher RPM's at launch and might Require power braking to keep from bogging. Maybe no MDS. Someone at the truckstop told me this so it may not work.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> :eek: Dixie
 

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Discussion Starter #11
jcsganga34 say, "shutting ESP OFF and dropping the gear to 1 and let it run the redline and shift automatically". Do you mean to shift manually? If it's in first, it won't shift automatically will it? Also, with the ESP off, does the wheel spin throttle the engine back?

Thanks for the suggestions to all w/ input. I'll give them all a try. I traded in my C-5 Vette and need the speed.
 

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Easy way to beat any yuppie driving an M-series Beamer:
1. At the stop light, look over, smile and give him the thumbs up;
2. Point to the light and give him/her the knowing look;
3. Rev motor, and then, all of the sudden look over and point to the left front fender of your opponents cars while mouthing the words, "what happened there?"
4. While yuppie's face twists in imagined horror, floor the gas pedal.
5. Laugh all the way to the next light where opponent will return for more of same.
QED
 

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Redman :D

SatinJay'd *** When you put the Xmission in 1st gear and floor it, it will shift at Redline. If you had an automatic in your vet it would do the same.

There does not seem to be any gains to shifting this way. If you have to let up early it just gives you something extra to think about. The Engine will not let you over rev it in any conditions, so don't worry about it. The engine is going to kill power when it shifts, so the transmission does not self destruct. No crispy, firm shifts from this tranny. At $4000 to replace, that's ok with me.

If you get a little to much wheelspin in MDS it will kill the power to about 1/2 and not come back up until you back off a little bit.

Wheel spin seems to kill power with MDS off, but not as much. The 300C is not a hotrod, that's for sure. You just have to love it for what it is. It makes most people smile with it's Hemi power and creature comforts.

Not a drivers car, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> :) Dixie
 

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On a related note, I somewhere read that today's performance tires do not need "heating up" like their predecessors.

The only reason to smoke them off would be if they were going to spin on the takeoff anyway.

Maybe I baby my baby, and I am running 20" Ziniks, but if I stomp it from a dead stop, there is squealing, not wheelspin.

I hesitate to do a redline powere brake launch, so I may never see sub 6 0-60 times.
 

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Hey CitadelGrad87,

All compounds that I know of get softer when they are heated up, but not enough extra grip, unless you are staging at the drag strip. On a motorcycle, you can really see the diff. Don't lean too much on cold tires or..........

Squealing is wheelspin or slip.

There is no way to get the RPM's up higher than where the torque converter locks up about 1200 RPM's (lower on some car's, a little higher on others) or spinning the tires, unless you are in neutral.

My Nephew, a Citadel grad. ( about 2000 ) left for Irac last week. Working with Gov. to put out oil fires.

Do the drivers where you are living drive as crazy as the Charleston drivers? :) >>>>>>>>>>>Dixie
 

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Hey, Dixietwister!

So the idea is to use the tirespin like a torque converter, rather than to really make the tires sticky? That makes sense.

Tell your nephew he's in our prayers, keep his head down!

The drivers here are terrible, nothing like a 78 Datsun cutting from the onramp to the fast lane at a 45 degree angle, max speed also about 45 mph.

A little consideration for those around would go a long way.
 
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