I have been having similar problems as I have described in a post on here. I've just discovered though that the stalling and unnormal idle goes away when I put the ac on. Perhaps see if that helps yours too. As for why having th ac on fixes my problem, i have no idea.

 

The tank issue is normally associated with a stall condition right after a fill up so I suspect you aren't suffering from that issue.

The U0100 code is probably lingering from the PCM replacement and can be cleared.

The P0522 code indicates either a bad connector (cracked, corrosion, dirty, wet) at the sensor or a bad sensor. I'd suggest you inspect the connector and harness. If that all looks good, replace the sensor.

The P0420 code can cause a stumble and also indicates a bad connector or harness. I'd check those as well before replacing the sensor.

Two other items to check:

1. Replace your EGR valve. When they coke up you'll end up with a lot of stumbling, stalling, and poor idle problems.

2. Clean your throttle body. These also get dirty and it affects the operation of the butterfly inside. It also can lead to too much air into the engine at idle as the flap is not in the right position due to a dirty condition.

Those would be good areas to check over. Clear the codes after you have finished with the items listed above.

 

Thank u , I'm ne to this but have been deal with for about 5 months now . It's getting old .

 

Thanks a lot Maddog! I'll look into those and let you know. Made it into work today with just one stall, while stopped at a light (which is usually how it happens). It does buck and shut off while driving sometimes (not all the way off, it always comes back on if I am moving at speed) but it is more common when I am stopped.

 

Thanks Dzaputo. I haven't had much opportunity to run the AC yet, so I haven't noticed if there is a connection. I'll check that out. Oddly, the car starts right up and idles just fine, runs great otherwise... just decides to stop running occasionally!

 

I had the same car and engine and same stalling problem. I had the fuel tank changed and the fuel pumps. I changed the EGR, ECM (Twice), Crankshaft sensor, purge valve, leak detector, evaporator canister and checked the alternator as well as clean all the fuses. Cleaned the throttle body and flapper too. Still stalled at stop lights. Tank full or empty it didn't matter. I then disconnected both hoses at the purge valve and blocked them with sticking a bolt in them both. The car didn't stall for 2 weeks but then I had fuel running out of the evaporator cannister. I put the hoses back on the purge valve to clear the cannister and the car stalled so I knew that was where the problem was coming from. I eventually made an orifice from a 1/4" doll rod and drilled a 1/16" hole in it then filed it to fit in the intake manifold where the purge hose connects to to meter down the fuel that comes from the cannister when the purge valve opens. Stall problem fixed. Running the A/C is similar to keeping your foot on the gas as the engine revs up a little. I would keep the rpm above 1000 at stop lights to keep from stalling. At idle, the engine is going too slow to accept that gulp of fuel from the cannister when the purge valve opens. Once the cannister is purged, there is no problem for a while but it comes back. Sometimes I would run on the highway for a while to clear the cannister. When you fill the tank those vapors go into the cannister and the problem starts again. I have not had a stall once since installing the orifice.