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So I've tried the resistor trick with this


The car is still juddering and blowing black fumes above 3k revs and hissing when taking foot off the accelerator. It had a few fault codes before this happened which was sorted by the mechanics.

Have i used the right resistor? And there are colours on there that I didn't take note off when plugging in to number 2 and 3 of the swirl motor connector.

Question is have I done it right? Or is it time to get the car in to the garage for a 1.3k job to get the manifolds put in?

Cheers.
 

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Hi!
I talked with mechanic and he approved what I sad to him about turbo actuator! Actuator fail!!
Error code P0046, thats must be it! So now Im looking for new actuator!
I will update how its goes!!
New update!! So I checked actuator and its totally in good condition, working good! Surprise....!!!!!!
So I called mechanic and he came with some pretttttyyy bad ass diagnostic computer! Tested it and diagnostics shows that egr valve gas something, something!! So today Im gonna try to clean it.(egr valve) Lets see and hope for the best!
Cheers guys!!
 

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Hi!! Forgot to tell you, that car is back on road again!!!!!! 😎
As it turned out in the end turbine geometry overgrown with soot!(stuck)
Which also caused the rest of the error codes. Egr valve and others!
Basically its not enough to drive sometimes only to the store near by! :D Just need more pedal to the metal :D
So yeeee, I'm pretty happy!!
 

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Hi!
Yes, 4.7K and resistor I plugged in two middle holes! O O O O
I will try to clean errors with diagnostic computer some day, maybe that will help!
Hi,Ive just had the same problem. Checked around the swirl motor and covered in oil, red ligt on and in limp mode.
Im now running a 2010 CRD and the bypass plug ive carried around for a few years doesn't fit !
Don't fancy forking out again off ebay, can anyone point me in the right direction for a bare plug please ?
 

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Hi everyone
I know this forum is for 300C’s but I have a PT Cruiser 2.2 CRD with this Swirl Flap problem , having stripped down the intake manifold and pressure washed it removing tons of gunk reassembled it as the swirl flaps were all in good condition and no longer sticking, now the final issue with my PT is going into limp home mode and the error code is swirl flaps, once resetting the ECU and clearing the codes she flys like a rocket ship, but not for long.
I have found your articles on fitting a 4.7K resistor 0.25W very interesting so have ordered some.
Looking at a photo on one of the articles it looks like you splice the resistor into the wires leaving the plug connected to the swirl flap motor, is this correct?
I was going to disconnect the plug and leave it disconnected pushing the resistor into the end of the disconnected plug is this incorrect?
Please keep the forum going as it is very very useful instructive and interesting.
Can anyone please advise me ?
Regards
Clive
 

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Hi everyone
I know this forum is for 300C’s but I have a PT Cruiser 2.2 CRD with this Swirl Flap problem , having stripped down the intake manifold and pressure washed it removing tons of gunk reassembled it as the swirl flaps were all in good condition and no longer sticking, now the final issue with my PT is going into limp home mode and the error code is swirl flaps, once resetting the ECU and clearing the codes she flys like a rocket ship, but not for long.
I have found your articles on fitting a 4.7K resister very interesting so have ordered some.
Looking at a photo on one of the articles it looks like you splice the resister into the wires leaving the plug connected to the swirl flap motor, is this correct?
I was going to disconnect the plug and leave it disconnected pushing the resister into
 

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I was going to disconnect the plug and leave it disconnected pushing the resistor into the end of the disconnected plug is this incorrect?
This is the correct procedure for the 300C. Can't comment on PT Cruiser application. Pin connections may be different as well as ECU specifications. Check the earlier posts on this thread.
The resistor is connected to the live and signal wires which are red/green and grey on the crd, these are actually the two centre connections on the plug, it is a four pin plug with three wires.
 

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This is the correct procedure for the 300C. Can't comment on PT Cruiser application. Pin connections may be different as well as ECU specifications. Check the earlier posts on this thread.
Many thanks for coming back to me so quickly, can you just tell me on the 300C do you splice the resistor into the two wires leaving the plug connected to the swirl flaps motor or do you disconnect the plug and put the resistor into the end of the electrical connector positions 2&3 leaving the connector unconnected and just tape up everything?
I would really appreciate an answer to this.
Many thanks
Clive
 

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There is no "splicing". The resistor ends are just inserted into the disconnected plug. I haven't tried this myself, but this appears to be the method. What I have done, is purchased a ready made "dongle" from the Custom300Cshop, to keep in the car, just in case needed. Although the simple resistor mod will work, you should only consider this as a temporary fix, as relying on friction alone to keep the resistor terminations in contact is probably not a good idea.
 

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There is no "splicing". The resistor ends are just inserted into the disconnected plug. I haven't tried this myself, but this appears to be the method. What I have done, is purchased a ready made "dongle" from the Custom300Cshop, to keep in the car, just in case needed. Although the simple resistor mod will work, you should only consider this as a temporary fix, as relying on friction alone to keep the resistor terminations in contact is probably not a good idea.
Many thanks for coming back to me so quickly all the best Clive
 

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Have just had to do the same thing, not on my 300c but the wifes jeep grand cherokee (same motor, same year 06 ).
While the EGR light has gone out the engine light remains on and the vehicle has lost it's off the line go meaning that you need to leave a bigger gap in traffic before pulling out into it.
Once going it perks up... now when the problem happened initially I checked forums and did the ignition on, hold accelerator down for 5 sec, repeat/repeat until EGR light went out. Took it for a test drive up the road and it took off like a scalded cat, then went back into limp mode a few minutes later. So put the resistor in, it goes and no limp mode but also no off the line acceleration.
Is there something else I should be looking at?
Cheers
 
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