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Thanks guys - is the glow plug thing easy to change ?

As for the actuator are there instructions on here for removing and re-fitting ?

Thanks a lot guys - just want my C back :(
 

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ok got the car back from the dealers - all codes wiped / reset and no fault come back on the 2 days they have been driving it. Its driving perfect now as it was before this problem. The fault code it logged points the the turbo actuator so getting this changed today as a precaution. Once done I guess I will have to see how it goes - at least if it comes back I will know the actuator is not at fault.

Will then look at the glow plug module - any advise where best to buy one of these from ? - assume its a DIY unplug and swap ?

Thanks guys for all your help - really appreciate it.
 

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Right - my turbo fault is fixed ! :) - it was the actuator, found a place to fix it (replace the circuit board and motor). Basically dry joints from the heat of the turbo on the old board as the bloke who fixed it showed me what he removed. Thats why it was intermittent as it got hot.

Just the glowplug thingy to fix now ......
 

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Hi everyone,

I just joined the forum to say thanks to everyone on here for posting about their swirl motor experience and fixes. I came across this thread after my throttle body light came on. First it was solid, and the car seemed OK, then it started to flash and the EML came on and the car was in limp mode. To cut a long story short I tried the resistor trick with a 4.7K resistor, 10 for 99p on Ebay :)

Put it across pins 2 and 3 and voila - car back to normal - no lights on the dash and no limp mode. Looks like I have the orange seals with oil ingress which has caused the issue with the swirl motor.

So thanks everyone who has posed about this fix and how to do it, my local garage were talking about £800 to fix this !!
 

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Hello Gentlemans.

After spending hours of reading this forum I think a found something that is close to my issue. I would like to ask you for some help. I have w211 e280CDi engine OM642. One day my car started to jerking when pulling the throttle pedal so I found out that the turbo actuator could be the issue I resoldered the two problem contacts and the found the info about the resistor mod for swirl flaps - could they do the jerking? I tryied the resistor mod but for the first time no succes, the car drove but only for 50% of power no limp mode because the kickdown worked but the motor was very lazy. When I removed the resistor and made a test drive the car was with full force. So second time I tried another resistor and made a test drive and the car stayed with 100% power and I personally think it had better and smooth running and the gears were changing smoother as well. But after one hour of enjoyable driving and engine check light appeared and car went to limp mode (faults 2514,2526,2530,2527 appeared). So I removed the resistor and putted everything back to defaul nothing happened, engine check still on the dash. So I desided to check the fuses and found that fuse no43 is blewn - 15A. When I replaced it car started to work no limp mode I cleared the faults and no one appeared again. Before I tryied the resistor mod I didnot get any fault regarding the swirl flaps, I was only curious to try it if there will be some change in the engine behavior. So my question is could the resistor cause the fuse no43 to blow? If yes why?

The resistor used was 4K7 0,6watt


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I lost the top cap of my E Bay bought emulator for the swirl motor exposing what had cost me about £40, it was just a very small 4.7ohm resistor, could have bought the resistor as you did for around 27p. Down to experience.
 

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Hello chrysler fans!! I hope it's okay to post about my problem in here!
First of all, I want to say sorry for my bad language(not my native langugage)
I bought my 300c crd diesel 2007 about six month ago! Love it, just love it!!
But there is some problem!! Driving on the highway sometimes after 50-100 km RED LIGHTNING appears on dashboard and of course car is in limp mode!
I can here that turbo is not working right before red lightning appears! Sounds like dog howling with pauses! :D And car is how to say, a little bit shaking!
After turning off engine I can go again sometimes 50 ormore km.
Okay and now is most interesting part!
I started to read about this problem and found this forum too.
I done 4.7k resistor trick. Went for test drive, everything looked good, but then after 40km red lightning again and limp mode hello!!!!
Question now is how da heck computer still is able to switch on red bolt and limp mode if I done resistor hack!!??? Because how I understand, now its completely off(computer)
Im really confused right now. Maybe someone can help??
BR Elvijs
 

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The swirl motor(amongst other things) determine where the actuator for the VV should be,it's been proven on here with that vid of the tugboat clock...lol...knick the signal off the swirl to make the VV work
Hi Everyone

My Chrysler has now reached over 519000 miles with original engine and for quite a few thousand miles possibly nearer to 80000 miles has been running on the resistor mod with absolutely no problems, cruises through MOT (which I have to have done every 6 months as it is a licensed private hire vehicle). Just to update since owning from new it has had 1 replacement gearbox 2 rear diffs, 1 alternator and set of injectors , all second hand apart from the alternator.
Have fun with yours.
 

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Hello chrysler fans!! I hope it's okay to post about my problem in here!
First of all, I want to say sorry for my bad language(not my native langugage)
I bought my 300c crd diesel 2007 about six month ago! Love it, just love it!!
But there is some problem!! Driving on the highway sometimes after 50-100 km RED LIGHTNING appears on dashboard and of course car is in limp mode!
I can here that turbo is not working right before red lightning appears! Sounds like dog howling with pauses! :D And car is how to say, a little bit shaking!
After turning off engine I can go again sometimes 50 ormore km.
Okay and now is most interesting part!
I started to read about this problem and found this forum too.
I done 4.7k resistor trick. Went for test drive, everything looked good, but then after 40km red lightning again and limp mode hello!!!!
Question now is how da heck computer still is able to switch on red bolt and limp mode if I done resistor hack!!??? Because how I understand, now its completely off(computer)
Im really confused right now. Maybe someone can help??
BR Elvijs
Gunters,
What are the fault codes? Have you installed the resistor correctly? Is the resistor the correct value ......4k7 Ohms or 4.7kohms or 4700 ohms (all the same).
 

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Hello Gentlemans.

After spending hours of reading this forum I think a found something that is close to my issue. I would like to ask you for some help. I have w211 e280CDi engine OM642. One day my car started to jerking when pulling the throttle pedal so I found out that the turbo actuator could be the issue I resoldered the two problem contacts and the found the info about the resistor mod for swirl flaps - could they do the jerking? I tryied the resistor mod but for the first time no succes, the car drove but only for 50% of power no limp mode because the kickdown worked but the motor was very lazy. When I removed the resistor and made a test drive the car was with full force. So second time I tried another resistor and made a test drive and the car stayed with 100% power and I personally think it had better and smooth running and the gears were changing smoother as well. But after one hour of enjoyable driving and engine check light appeared and car went to limp mode (faults 2514,2526,2530,2527 appeared). So I removed the resistor and putted everything back to defaul nothing happened, engine check still on the dash. So I desided to check the fuses and found that fuse no43 is blewn - 15A. When I replaced it car started to work no limp mode I cleared the faults and no one appeared again. Before I tryied the resistor mod I didnot get any fault regarding the swirl flaps, I was only curious to try it if there will be some change in the engine behavior. So my question is could the resistor cause the fuse no43 to blow? If yes why?

The resistor used was 4K7 0,6watt


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Mac sixx69, You don't say what year your car is? Fuses and relays on older cars can start to fail or misbehave. This forum is for 300c CRDs so another vehicle (still using the OM642) will have different fuse boxes. Fuse 43 on my 300c CRD fuse box diagram is the rear defroster and its in the rear power distribution box in the boot/trunk and is 30A. The only 15A fuses are in the front fusebox in the engine compartment and they don't go up to No43. Can you post a picture with the fuse highlighted. If the car is an older example sometimes reseating fuses or relays can help. Fuses do fail with age particularly if they are constantly under significant load or have surges in the circuit.
The faults that you list may not disapper immediately. Some codes need to be reset and some disappear after a number of engine starts.
175138


Fuse 43 is defroster. These codes can be associated with a faulty relay at position 24. I have these relays on hand ....they are cheap and easy to buy Omron 21911C Part No 05269988AA. There is usually a spare one in position 47 you could try.

Neil
 

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Macsixx69, Now I have got it.......... you were speaking mercedesish...... W211 E28CDI........for us commoners it might help on a Chrysler forum to include the word Mercedes then we can apply the right filters. :)
Same arguement will apply fuses do fail and there will a relay set. Position 43 on your Merc is the CDI control unit...could still be an age related failure. Again I would suggest reseating relays.

Apologies for the confusion.
 

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Gunters,
What are the fault codes? Have you installed the resistor correctly? Is the resistor the correct value ......4k7 Ohms or 4.7kohms or 4700 ohms (all the same).
Hi!
Yes, 4.7K and resistor I plugged in two middle holes! O O O O
I will try to clean errors with diagnostic computer some day, maybe that will help!
 

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Update !! It's getting worse and worse !! The car shakes very badly when I press the accelerator pedal more !!
And the diagnostics showed error codes P0046 P2033 P0403 P0401
Bad day it is !!!!!
 

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Update !! It's getting worse and worse !! The car shakes very badly when I press the accelerator pedal more !!
And the diagnostics showed error codes P0046 P2033 P0403 P0401
Bad day it is !!!!!
I feel like this is happening to my W204. I've been told that my manifolds are actually missing from the car. So it needs to be replaced. The car is juddering when I drive and lots of smoke from exhaust.
 

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I feel like this is happening to my W204. I've been told that my manifolds are actually missing from the car. So it needs to be replaced. The car is juddering when I drive and lots of smoke from exhaust.
Hi!
I talked with mechanic and he approved what I sad to him about turbo actuator! Actuator fail!!
Error code P0046, thats must be it! So now Im looking for new actuator!
I will update how its goes!!
 
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